Edinburgh - Scotland - page 140

Begin on the Castle Esplanade , which provides a grandstand view south over the Grassmarket; the promin-
ent quadrangular building with all the turrets is George Heriot's School, which you'll be passing later on. Head to-
wards Castlehill and the start of the Royal Mile.
The 17th-century house on the right is known as Cannonball House because of the iron ball lodged in the
wall (look between, and slightly below, the two largest windows on the wall facing the castle). It was not fired in an-
ger, but marks the gravitation height to which water would flow naturally from the city's first piped water supply.
The low, rectangular building across the street (now a touristy tartan-weaving mill) was originally the reservoir
that held the Old Town's water supply. On its west wall is the Witches Well , where a bronze fountain commem-
orates around 4000 people (mostly women) who were executed between 1479 and 1722 on suspicion of witchcraft.
Go past the reservoir and turn left down Ramsay Lane. Take a look at Ramsay Garden - one of Edinburgh's
most desirable addresses - where late-19th-century apartments were built around the octagonal Ramsay Lodge,
once home to poet Allan Ramsay. The cobbled street continues around to the right below student residences, to the
towers of the New College , home to Edinburgh University's Faculty of Divinity. Nip into the courtyard to see
the statue of John Knox (a firebrand preacher who led the Protestant Reformation in Scotland, and was instrumental
in the creation of the Church of Scotland in 1560).
Just past New College turn right and climb the stairs into Milne's Court, a student residence belonging to Edin-
burgh University. Exit into Lawnmarket, cross the street (bearing slightly left) and duck into Riddell's Court , a
typical Old Town close at No 322-8. You'll find yourself in a small courtyard, but the house in front of you (built in
1590) was originally the edge of the street (the building you just walked under was added in 1726 - look for the in-
scription in the doorway on the right). The arch with the inscription Vivendo discimus (we live and learn) leads into
the original 16th-century courtyard.
Go back into the street, turn right and right again down Fisher's Close, which leads to the delightful Victoria Ter-
race, strung above the cobbled curve of shop-lined Victoria St. Wander right, enjoying the view - Maxie's Bis-
tro , at the far end of the terrace, is a great place to stop for a drink - then descend the stairs at the foot of Upper
Bow and continue downhill to the Grassmarket. At the east end, outside Maggie Dickson's pub, is the Coven-
anters Monument , which marks the site of the gallows where more than 100 Covenanters were martyred in the
17th century.
If you're feeling peckish, the Grassmarket has several good places to eat and a couple of good pubs - Robert
Burns once stayed at the White Hart Inn . Go to the west end of the Grassmarket and turn left up the stairs
known as The Vennel. At the top, on the left, you'll find the Flodden Wall , one of the few surviving fragments
of the city wall that was built in the early 16th century as protection against a feared English invasion. Follow its ex-
tension, the Telfer Wall, to Lauriston Pl and turn left along the impressive facade of George Heriot's School ,
built in the 17th century with funds bequeathed by George Heriot (goldsmith and banker to King James VI). It was
originally a school and home for orphaned children, but became a fee-paying public school in 1886. Note this is the
back of the building - the front was designed to face the castle and impress the inhabitants of the Grassmarket.
Turn left at Forrest Rd and, if it's a Sunday afternoon, pop into Sandy Bell's for a pint and some Scottish folk
music; otherwise, pause for a photo oppurtunity with the statue of Greyfriars Bobby , then take a stroll through
atmospheric Greyfriars Kirkyard . Descend Candlemakers Row and turn right at the bottom of the hill into the
Cowgate.