Edinburgh - Scotland - page 130

There's an excellent cafe downstairs, and the surrounding park features sculptures by
Henry Moore, Rachel Whiteread and Barbara Hepworth, among others, as well as a 'land-
form artwork' by Charles Jencks.
A footpath and stairs at the rear of the gallery lead down to the Water of Leith Walk-
way , which you can follow along the river for 4 miles to Leith. This takes you past 6
Times , a sculptural project by Anthony Gormley consisting of six human figures standing
at various points along the river. (The statues are designed to fall over in flood conditions,
so some of them may not be visible after heavy rain.)
Directly across Belford Rd from Modern One, another neoclassical mansion (formerly
an orphanage) houses its annexe, Modern Two , which houses a large collection of sculp-
ture and graphic art created by the Edinburgh-born artist Sir Eduardo Paolozzi. One of the
1st-floor rooms houses a recreation of Paolozzi's studio, while the rest of the building
stages temporary exhibitions of modern art.

Leith
Two miles northeast of the city centre, Leith has been Edinburgh's seaport since the 14th
century and remained an independent burgh with its own town council until it was incor-
porated by the city in the 1920s. Like many of Britain's dockland areas, it fell into decay
in the decades following WWII but has been undergoing a revival since the late 1980s.
Old warehouses have been turned into luxury flats, and a lush crop of trendy bars and res-
taurants has sprouted along the waterfront. The area was given an additional boost in the
late 1990s when the Scottish Executive (a government department) moved to a new build-
ing on Leith docks.
The city council has formulated a major redevelopment plan for the entire Edinburgh
waterfront from Leith to Granton, the first phase of which is Ocean Terminal ( 555
8888; www.oceanterminal.com ; Ocean Dr; 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat,
11am-6pm Sun; 1, 11, 22, 34, 35 or 36) , a shopping and leisure complex that includes
the former Royal Yacht Britannia and a berth for visiting cruise liners. Parts of Leith are
still a bit rough but it's a distinctive corner of the city and well worth exploring.

Royal Yacht Britannia
( www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk ; Ocean Terminal; adult/child £11.75/7.50;
9.30am-4.30pm Jul-Sep, to 4pm Apr-Jun & Oct, 10am-3.30pm Nov-Mar, last admission
90min before closing) One of Scotland's biggest tourist attractions is the former Royal
Yacht Britannia . She was the British royal family's floating home during their foreign
travels from the time of her launch in 1953 until her decommissioning in 1997, and is now
moored permanently in front of Ocean Terminal.

HISTORIC VESSEL