Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
Rabbits need a space of at least .75 feet per pound of expected mature body weight in their cages.
Make the top of the cages at least 18 inches tall, more for larger breeds of rabbits. You'll want to
make sure that the cage is comfortable for the rabbit and doesn't have any sharp edges to cut their
thin skins.
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Wire is the typical building material for rabbit cages, but any sharp protrusions from where the wire has
been cut can harm your bunnies. Check inside the cage, including door openings, with your hand and file
down any sharp edges.
Cages should provide good ventilation for your rabbits so that fumes from their manure don't build
up and harm their eyes or lungs. Wire is often used, which gives the added benefit of being self-
cleaning, allowing the droppings to fall out of the cage and onto the ground or floor below.
Rabbits tend to prefer cooler temperatures, around 55°F to 60°F, so climates that get warmer will
need plenty of shade and protection from direct sunlight. It's easier to raise rabbit stock that has
been bred in these warmer climates than to ship rabbits from milder climates to hot southern zones
where they will be stressed by the transition. Even the hardiest breeds will need protection from
wet weather, chilly drafts, or overheating.
Any cage or hutch that you put together should also be easily accessed for daily maintenance. You'll
need to clean out cages, provide fresh water and food on a daily basis, and check on the welfare of
your rabbits. If the cages are difficult to get to you'll be creating extra work for yourself, so save the
hassle and make or purchase easy-to-use cages right from the start.
The wire you use in your rabbit cages or hutches should be a sturdy-gauge wire that won't be
easily broken through. The squares should be large enough for good ventilation and to allow pellet
droppings through pretty easily. But the wire squares should be small enough to prevent kits from
slipping through the openings. Some breeders use a type of wire called “baby saver” wire, which
has smaller openings at the bottom of the cage sides to keep the babies from crawling out.
Chicken wire in the typical woven hexagonal pattern is not strong enough for a rabbit cage. Try
welded mesh wire in a 14-gauge strength and make sure the size of the squares is around
1
⁄
2
×1 inch
to allow plenty of support for the feet of your rabbit. Any wood portions of your cage or hutch
should be inaccessible to your rabbits because chewing treated lumber can make them sick.
Raised rabbit hutches will hold more than one cage. These structures will put the cages at a level
where caring for the rabbit is easier. They also allow droppings to fall down to the ground below
which many backyard farmers will use as a place for raising worms. These worm beds under the
rabbit hutches can provide rich worm castings and great soil amendments for the garden while
eliminating any potential odors from the rabbit droppings. A true win-win situation—which is
what I love to see on the backyard farm.
