Northern Thailand - Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and Northern Thailand - page 886

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
BEUNG KAN & AROUND

From Nakhon Phanom, the river-fronting road loops around the northeastern hump of Thailand to
Beung Kan , a dusty riverside pit stop. During the dry season the Mekong recedes here to its narrow-
est point along the Thailand-Laos border. Beyond river trivia and the Thai-Lao Market every Tues-
day and Friday morning, the area surrounding Beung Kan has a few untouristed attractions that might
waylay curious visitors.
If you decide to stay, the Mekong-facing Maenam Hotel ( 0 4249 1051; Th Chansin; r
400-450B; ) has the best views in town. Many restaurants set up tables along the
riverside promenade at dinnertime.
Buses to Nong Khai (100B to 150B, 3½ hours, eight daily), Nakhon Phanom (140B, 3½ hours, four
daily) and Udon Thani (130B to 150B, 4½ hours, 12 daily) park near the old clock tower. Beung Kan
is also a legal border crossing into Laos.
Planted on a giant sandstone outcrop southeast of Beung Kan, Wat Phu Tok ( วัดภูทอก ; Isolated
Mountain Temple; 6am-5pm, closed 10-16 Apr) is a forest monastery known for its medit-
ative isolation. Seven levels of stairs scramble up the mountain past shrines and monastic residences
built in caves and clutching at cliffs. The final flight represents the last ascent to enlightenment and re-
wards climbers with vistas over the surrounding countryside.
Túk-túk in Beung Kan can be hired for the return journey to/from Wat Phu Tok for about 800B. It's
cheaper to take a bus from Beung Kan to Ban Siwilai (30B, 45 minutes) where túk-túk drivers will do
it for 350B. If you catch an early bus to Beung Kan, Wat Phu Tok can be visited as a day trip from
Nong Khai, although there's no need to backtrack since buses from Siwilai go to Udon Thani (140B,
four hours, last bus 4.45pm).
Another nearby attraction is the 186-sq-km Phu Wua Wildlife Reserve , home to several herds of
elephants. The reserve can be easily visited through the excellent Kham Pia Homestay ( 08 7861
0601, 0 4241 3578; www.thailandwildelephanttrekking.com ; per r 200B, meals 50-90B). Buses
between Nong Khai (150B, 3½ hours) and Nakhon Phanom (130B, three hours) will drop you off at
the Ban Don Chik highway junction, 3km away.

TOP OF CHAPTER

Loei

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The city of Loei is a necessary transport hub but not nearly as endearing as its remote and
mountainous countryside, much of which is sparsely inhabited and not easily cultivated. If
you need to spend the night, try Sugar Guest House ( 08 9711 1975;
www.sugarguesthouse.blog.com ; Soi 2, Th Wisut Titep; r 200-380B; ) , the cheapest and

friendliest place in town.