Northern Thailand - Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and Northern Thailand - page 847

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
BEYOND KO CHANG

Ko Chang is Thailand's second-largest island, and has a mighty reputation, but it's only one of 51 is-
lands in the eponymous archipelago. A handful of these islands are home to accommodation, although
most bungalows close during the May-to-September low season when seas are rough and flooding is
common.
The islands below can be reached from the mainland, typically from the pier at Laem Ngop, while
Bang Bao Boat ( www.bangbaoboat.com ) is the archipelago's inter-island ferry. Boats depart Ko
Chang at 9am and arrive at Ko Wai (one way 300B, one hour) and continue on to Ko Mak (one way
400B, one hour) and Ko Kut (700B, three hours). The boats leave from Bang Bao in the southeast of
the island.

Ko Kut
All the paradise descriptions apply to Ko Kut: the water is clear, coconut palms outnumber buildings,
and an unhurried atmosphere embraces you upon arrival. White sand beaches with aquamarine water
are strewn along the western side of the island, while rocky coves and mangrove estuaries make Ko
Kut a great destination for snorkelling and kayaking.
You can scrimp your way into the neighbourhood of beautiful Hat Khlong Chao by staying at one
of the village guesthouses, which are a five- to 15-minute walk to the beach. Families will prefer the
midrange options, such as Dusita ( 08 1707 4546; Ao Ngam Kho; r 1290-2190B; ), on Ao
Ngam Kho. And if you're itching to splurge, upscale places like Bann Makok ( 08 1643 9488;
www.bannmakok.com ; Khlong Yai Ki; r 2800-4000B; ) make Ko Kut the place to do it.

Ko Mak
Little Ko Mak is not destined for island super-stardom: the interior is a utilitarian landscape of
coconut and rubber plantations and reports of sand flies make visitors a little nervous. But the palm-
fringed bays are bathed by gently lapping water and there's a relaxed vibe. The best beach on the is-
land is Ao Pra in the west, but it's completely undeveloped and hard to reach. For now, swimming
and beach strolling are best on the northwestern bay of Ao Suan Yai , a wide arc of sand and looking-
glass-clear water.
Most budget guesthouses, such as Koh Mak Cottage ( 08 1910 2723; Ao Khao; r 400-500B;
), are on Ao Khao, a decent strip of sand on the southwestern side of the island, while the resorts,
including Koh Mak Resort ( 0 3950 1013; www.kohmakresort.com ; Ao Suan Yai; r 2800-6800B;
), sprawl on the more scenic northwestern bay of Ao Suan Yai. There are a handful of
family-run restaurants on the main road between Monkey Island and Makathanee Resort.

Ko Rayang
Ko Rayang is a private island with one tiny resort: Rayang Island Resort ( 0 3950 1000;
www.rayang-island.com ; r 2500-3800B). Accommodation is basic, but there's potential for snor-
kelling just outside your door; get there by ferry (170B) from Ko Mak's Tha Makathanee.