Laos - Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and Northern Thailand - page 746

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Bolaven Plateau
This beautiful landscape of lush forests, rivers, waterfalls and lavender-hued mountains is
Laos' principal coffee-growing region. Back in the 19th century the French, looking to
maximise the yield of their colony, decided the fertile soil on the 1000m Bolaven Plateau
(Phu Phieng Bolaven in Lao) merited being turned into coffee plantations, and enjoying a
frothy cappuccino in nearby Pakse, you'll be very glad they did.
The plateau is a centre for several Mon-Khmer ethnic groups, including the Alak,
Laven (Bolaven means 'land of the Laven'), Ta-oy, Suay and Katu. The Alak and Katu are
known for a water-buffalo sacrifice they perform yearly, usually on a full moon in March.
But the main draw are the plateau's several spectacular waterfalls, including the dramatic
twin cascades of Tat Fan , a few kilometres west of Paksong. The Tad Fane Resort (Rte 16,
Km38; r incl breakfast US$27-37; ) has tastefully finished log cabanas, surrounded by veget-
ation and overlooking the falls. It offers short treks to the top of the waterfall, but don't at-
tempt this after rain as the near-vertical muddy slopes are lethal.
GETTING TO VIETNAM: ATTAPEU TO NGOC HOI
Getting to the border The Phou Keua/Bo Y border crossing is in far southeastern Attapeu province,
113km southeast of Attapeu town. Mai Linh Express ( in Attapeu 030-539 0216, in Vietnam
0592-211 211) operates a daily minibus connecting Pakse with Kontum (145,000K) via Paksong,
Sekong and Attapeu. It departs at 5.45am from Pakse and reaches Attapeu around 10.30am. From At-
tapeu it takes around five hours to Kontum and costs 70,000K. Tickets are sold at the Dúc Lôc Hotel.
At the border Vietnamese visas must be arranged in advance. Thirty-day visas are granted on arrival
in Laos and cost between US$30 and US$42 depending on your nationality.
Moving on Once on the Vietnamese side of the border, minibuses continue to Ngoc Hoi, 18km away.
There are places to stay in Ngoc Hoi, plus morning departures for a wide range of destinations.
For more information about crossing this border in the other direction, Click here .
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Tat Lo
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