Laos - Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and Northern Thailand - page 742

(Li Phi Falls; admission 25,000K; ticket booth 8am-5pm) About 1.5km down-river from the
French bridge on Don Khon is a raging set of rapids called Tat Somphamit, referred to by
just about everyone as Li Phi Falls. Li Phi means 'spirit trap' and locals believe the falls
act as just that - a trap for bad spirits (of deceased people and animals) as they wash down
the river.
You may notice local fishermen edging out onto the rocks to clear the enormous bam-
boo traps. During the early rains, a well-positioned trap can catch half a tonne of fish a
day.

DOLPHINS ENDANGERED

The Irrawaddy dolphin is one of the Mekong River's most fascinating and endangered creatures.
The dark blue to grey cetaceans grow to 2.75m long and are recognisable by their bulging foreheads,
perpetual grins and small dorsal fins.
Among the Lao and Khmer, Irrawaddy dolphins are traditionally considered reincarnated humans
and there are many stories of dolphins having saved the lives of fishermen or villagers who have
fallen into the river or been attacked by crocodiles. These cultural beliefs mean that neither the Lao
nor the Khmer intentionally capture dolphins for food or sport.
Gill netting and years of destructive fishing practices have taken their toll. Education and conserva-
tion programs continue, but gill netting remains a constant threat - it's now estimated there are fewer
than 100 dolphins remaining; prior to the 1970s there were thousands. The surviving few live primar-
ily in several deep-water conservation 'pools' along a 190km stretch of the Mekong between the Lao
border and the Cambodian town of Kratie. It is believed that fewer than 10 dolphins now survive in
Boong Pa Gooang , the 600m-wide, 50m-deep pool where you will be taken to see them.

Sleeping
Don Det's 'Sunrise Boulevard' on the northern tip is claustrophobic and noisy, but if you
want to keep the party going (at least till the 11pm curfew) head here. Much more upscale
digs are further south and over on sedate Don Khon.
In low-season expect prices 25% cheaper than listed here.

DON DET

Sunset View
( 020 9788 2978; Sunset Blvd; r 120,000K; ) More of a flashpacker option, the bathrooms
are shinier, the living quarters roomier and beds thicker than anywhere else in the area.

GUESTHOUSE $