Laos - Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and Northern Thailand - page 740

GETTING TO CAMBODIA: SOUTHERN LAOS TO STUNG TRENG
Getting to the border The remote Nong Nok Khiene/Trapeang Kriel is a popular crossing on the In-
dochina overland circuit. From Pakse, catch the Sorya Phnom Penh Transport bus which leaves at
7.30am from the VIP (2km) bus terminal and goes to Phnom Penh (US$27, 12 to 14 hours), with stops
to pick up passengers in Don Khong and Don Det. The only other option to the border from Si Phan
Don is private transport.
At the border Entering Cambodia, they jack up the price of a 30-day tourist visa to US$25 from the
normal US$20. The extra US$5 is called 'tea money', as the poor border guards have been stationed at
such a remote crossing. In addition, the Cambodians charge US$2 for a cursory medical inspection
upon arrival in the country, and levy a US$2 processing fee upon exit. These fees might be waived if
you protest, but don't protest for too long or your bus may leave without you.
Moving on If you're not on a direct bus, head to Stung Treng to catch a bus to Phnom Penh, Siem
Reap and Ban Lung. Taxis to Stung Treng from the border cost US$40.
For more information about crossing this border in the other direction, Click here .
Getting Around
Bicycles (10,000K per day) and motorbikes (60,000K per day) can be hired from guest-
houses and elsewhere along the main street.
Don Det & Don Khon
The vast majority of travellers to Si Phan Don end up on these twin islands. Don Det in
particular has become more popular among young travellers in recent years, leading some
to speculate that it will replace Vang Vieng as the go-to spot in Laos for vice-fuelled ex-
cess. That would seem unlikely: there's nothing stronger than grass in the 'happy' snacks
sold openly at some bars, and the locals seem to have a genuine desire to keep it that way.
Our best guess is that a hippyesque party scene will continue to thrive in Ban Hua Det at
the north end of Don Det, but it will never become as depraved as the old Vang Vieng.
Of course there's much more to these two islands than Scooby snacks. Heading south
from Ban Hua Det, the guesthouses thin out and the icons of rural island life - fishermen,
rice farmers, weavers, buffalo, sugar palms - are on full display. Chill in a hammock,
cycle around the islands, or languidly drift downstream in an inner tube amid the tur-
quoise arms of the Mekong. Cross the French bridge to Don Khon and pick up trails that
lead through forests and rice fields to hidden rapids, beaches and, off the island's extreme
southern tip, frolicking Irrawaddy dolphins.