Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Frice and Lujane Restaurant
(mains 40,000-60,000K; 5-9pm)
The Italian founder has gone but his legacy, in the form of
cuisine inspired by Italy's Friulian alpine region, lives on at this atmospheric restaurant
based in a renovated villa. Gnocchi, marinated pork ribs, goulash and homemade sausage
grace the menu.
ITALIAN
$$
Getting There & Around
Regular buses and
sŏrngtăaou
run between Champasak and Pakse (20,000K, one hour)
from about 6.30am until 1pm; early morning is busiest.
If you're heading south to Ban Nakasang (for Don Det) or Muang Khong (on Don
Khong), get to Ban Lak 30 (on Rte 13), where you can flag down anything going south.
Ban Lak 30 sits on a crossroads (marked by a gas station) between Hwy 13 headed south
to the Four Thousand Islands, and reached by Rte 140 over the river from Champasak.
Bicycles (per day 15,000K) and scooters (per half/full day 50,000/80,000K) can be
hired from guesthouses.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands)
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Also known as the Four Thousand Islands, this beguiling archipelago of islets is the emer-
ald jewel towards the end of the Mekong's 4350km journey. Here the river passes around
thousands of sandbars sprouting with sugar palms, its colour an electric peacock-green. At
night the waters are dotted with the lights of fishing boats and fireflies, the soundtrack
provided by braying buffalo and singing cicadas. Activities to keep you occupied include
tubing, kayaking, visiting the raging waterfalls and cycling around the three main islands
- Don Khong, and sister islands Don Det and Don Khon - spotting the rare Irrawaddy
dolphin and, of course, hammock dwelling.
Islands Det and Khon are the best places for hammock flopping and tubing, while
neighbour Don Khong is much larger but has less of a traveller scene.
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