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has now been atmospherically lit, and while your longtail docks in a rocky inlet and you
explore a haunting stalactite wood, your imagination will likely be in overdrive: are those
Gollum's eyes in the bat-black gloom or a boatman's torch beam?
Once you get to the other side of the cave and stop for refreshments in a nearby shelter,
you still have to make the return journey. Remember to bring a decent torch, plus rubber
sandals (life-jackets are provided). It costs 105,000K per boat for the return trip (2½
hours, maximum four people). It's best to spend the night near the cave in Kong Lo vil-
lage (about 1km downstream of the cave mouth), where you'll find restaurants and plenty
of guesthouses.
Sleeping
BAN KHOUN KHAM
Sainamhai Resort
( 020 233 1683;
www.sainamhairesort.com
;
r 130,000K; )
Riverside Sainamhai has a
handsome longhouse restaurant (mains 25,000K) and 12 well-maintained rattan-walled
cabanas with private balconies, en suites and clean linen. It's 3km east of Rte 8; follow the
sign near the junction of Rte 8 and the road that borders the Theun Hin Bun dam housing
compound at the east end of town. Free pick-up from bus station.
RESORT
$
Xok Xai Guesthouse
( 051-233629; Rte 8; r 80,000K; )
Lovely rooms in a traditional house set back off Rte
8, 400m north of the market. Details include spotless varnished floors, thick duvets, TV,
air-con, powder-blue curtains and hot-water en suites.
GUESTHOUSE
$
KONG LO VILLAGE & AROUND
Sala Kong Lor
( 020 5564 5111;
www.salalao.com
; Ban Tiou; bungalows US$6-30; )
Located 1.5km down-
stream of Tham Kong Lo, these stilted bungalows range from basic to superior and sit by
the Nam Hin Bun. En suite rooms are basic but welcoming, with brick walls, blue bed-
spreads, mozzie nets, a few sticks of furniture and private balconies from which to enjoy
the lush river view.
GUESTHOUSE
$
Chantha Guest House
GUESTHOUSE
$
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