Laos - Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and Northern Thailand - page 683

Pak Beng
Essentially a one-street town, Pak Beng is the halfway point on the Mekong River
between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang. You'll probably stop here for lunch (speedboats)
or an obligatory night (two-day slowboats). The town itself is perched on the vertiginous
slopes of the riverbank and to call it listless is going overboard - barely a chicken stirs. If
you're here for the night there's a couple of plush hotels in which to stay.
There's little in the way of attractions, but the Mekong Elephant Camp ( 071-254130)
across the Mekong offers elephant rides (prices run from US$40 to US$82) and a chance
to see the Dumbos taking their ablutions in the river.
Monsavan Guest House ( 084-212619; r from 100,000K; ) has house-proud rooms on
the main street close to the boat landing. They feature white walls, a few sticks of fur-
niture and clean bathrooms; upstairs the rooms are better. Nicer still is homely Villa Santi-
siouk ( 020 5578 1797; r in low season US$3-12; ) with its warm orange walls, partial
wood interiors, tasteful furniture, river views and friendly management. Located at the top
of the strip, the Dockhoun Guesthouse ( 084-212540; [e-mail] ; r from 300B; )
has inviting rooms with fresh linen and hot-water showers.
For greater comforts, the Pak Beng Lodge ( 084-212304; www.pakbenglodge.com ; r
US$84-184; ) and the ecofriendly, traditional Luang Say Lodge ( 084-212296;
www.luangsay.com ; r from 700,000K) should satisfy, however the best value upscale digs are
found at Mekong Riverside Lodge ( 020 5517 1068; www.mekongriversidelodge.com ; r from US$40;
) .
Restaurants at the Bounmee Guesthouse , Sarika or Sivilai have great river views. By night,
colourful lanterns make Ounhoan a favourite. Indian restaurant Hashan ( ) also has ap-
pealing lighting and decor with good riverviews. Khopchaideu is one of the best all-round-
ers despite the lack of a river view.
A tourist office ( www.oudomxay.info ; 7am-noon & 2-9pm) up the hill is well endowed with
illustrative info and leaflets on things to do including exploring the Chom Ong cave sys-
tem. There's also a Lao Development Bank with an ATM.
The tiny bus station is at the northernmost edge of town with departures to Udomxai
(40,000K, four hours) at 9am and 12.30pm.