Laos - Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and Northern Thailand - page 675

All three main sites can be visited by rented motorbike from Phonsavan in around five
hours, while Site 1 is within bicycle range. Site 1 is just 8km southwest of central Phon-
savan, 2.3km west of the Muang Khun road: turn at the signed junction in Ban Hay Hin.
For Sites 2 and 3, turn west of the Muang Khun road at just past Km 8. Follow the un-
paved road for 10km/14km to find the turnings for Sites 2/3, then follow muddy tracks for
1.5/1.8km respectively.
Alternatively, sign up the night before to join one of several regular guided minibus
tours. Most throw in a noodle-soup lunch at Site 3 and a quick stop to see the lumpy rust-
ing remnant of an armoured vehicle at Ban Nakho: its nickname, the 'Russian Tank', ex-
aggerates the appeal.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Huah Phan Province
Rugged and beautiful, Huah Phan is unlike any other province in Laos. Although home to
22 different ethnic groups, including Yao, Hmong, Khamu, Thai Khao and Thai Neua, the
strong Vietnamese influence is evident. The province's high altitude means the climate
can be cool - even in the hot season - and forested mountains are shrouded in mist. Road
journeys to Huah Phan are memorably scenic, described by one local as 'a journey of a
million turns'.
Despite the remote border to Vietnam and Hanoi opening to foreigners, this remains
one of the least-visited provinces in Laos, which is a great reason to get off the beaten
track and come - your exploration will be well rewarded.
Sam Neua
064 / POP 16,000
A trip to remote Sam Neua, one of Laos' least-visited provincial capitals, rewards with
pine-ridged valleys, emerald rice paddies, charcoal-black karsts and the fascinating caves
of Vieng Xai. During the Secret War this was a major stronghold of the communist Pathet
Lao and there's still a sense of this with a Soviet-nodding memorial and Russian hats
worn by the old boys in the market. Laos' finest silk scarves are woven here, so keep an
eye out for them as you wander the market, and don't miss the eye-opening wet market
over the river.