Laos - Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and Northern Thailand - page 666

bombed between 1964 and 1973, and a sense of that tragedy endures today with the perni-
cious legacy of UXO (unexploded ordnance). Despite its alpine landscape, the shadow of
the past looms large, with entire areas still denuded. Most come here to see the mystical
Plain of Jars, but there are also several fascinating sites relating to the war that are open to
tourists.
Phonsavan
061 / POP 60,000
Phonsavan bears its cratered war scars like an acne-ridden pensioner, while stoic locals
make the most of decommissioned unexploded ordnance (UXO), using it to decorate
houses and hotel foyers. Touchingly, while other areas of Laos erupt in pockets of sophist-
ication, Phonsavan, like some retro-leaning Muscovite, barely changes. Often mist-
shrouded and chilly, with locals gathering collars around weather-beaten faces, this dusty
old town (latterly known as Xieng Khouang) has elements of charm if you look past its
nondescript, Soviet facade - blame that on its hasty rebuild after it was decimated.
The town is populated by an intriguing cast of Chinese, Vietnamese, Lao and Hmong
residents, and is well serviced by an airport, and a handful of guesthouses and restaurants.