Laos - Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and Northern Thailand - page 658

Around Luang Prabang
Pak Ou Caves
About 25km upstream on the Mekong and at the mouth of the Nam Ou, the dramatic Pak
Ou Caves (Tham Ting; admission 20,000K) are set into limestone cliffs and are crammed with
hundreds of Buddha images, a kind of statue's graveyard where unwanted images are
placed. This pantheon of statuary is split into two levels, with the lower being more im-
pressive. A steep, 10-minute climb up dark slippery steps yields a view of the mysterious
naga vessel. Bring a torch.
Most boat trips stop at small villages along the way, especially Ban Xang Hai . Boatmen
call this tourist-dominated place 'Whisky Village', as it's known for its free-flowing lòw-
lów (rice whisky).
Luang Prabang's longboat office sells return boat tickets to Pak Ou (per person/boat
60,000/400,000K return) taking two hours upstream, 1¼ hours back and allowing around
an hour at the caves plus 20 minutes at Ban Xang Hay. Departures are most numerous
around 8.30am but generally continue all morning. Travel agencies and guesthouses sell
the same tickets for a little more, often including a túk-túk transfer.
Tat Kuang Si
Tat Kuang Si (or Kuang Si Falls), 32km from the city, is a tonic for sore eyes, with a multit-
iered cascade tumbling over limestone formations into menthol-green pools below. The
waterfall is set in a beautifully lush, well-manicured public park (admission 20,000K) , and
there's nothing more Eden-like than plunging into the turquoise water to cool off after
making the vertiginous ascent.
Just past the entrance are enclosures housing cuddly sun bears at the Tat Kuang Si Bear
Rescue Centre ( www.freethebears.org.au ) . All have been confiscated from poachers and
are kept here in preference to releasing them to the same certain fate.
Túk-túk from Luang Prabang typically charge 200,000K for one person, or from
300,000K for several people for the trip out here. Some folks manage to cobble together
an impromptu group by meeting fellow travellers beside the baguette sellers' area near the