Laos - Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and Northern Thailand - page 623

AROUND VIENTIANE
TOP OF CHAPTER
Phu Khao Khuay National Protected Area
Covering more than 2000 sq km of mountains to the east of Vientiane, Phu Khao Khuay
National Protected Area (NPA) is home to three major rivers that flow off a sandstone
mountain range and into the Ang Nam Leuk Reservoir. It boasts an extraordinary array of
endangered wildlife, including wild elephants, gibbons, Asiatic black bears and clouded
leopards.
Detailed information on trekking, accommodation and getting to and from Phu Khao
Khuay can be found at the tourist information centre ( Click here ) in Vientiane. Trekking in
Phu Khao Khuay costs 160,000K per person per day, and you must also purchase a permit
to enter the NPA (50,000K), and contribute to the village fund (50,000K). If trekking from
Ban Hat Khai you'll also have to pay for boat transport (70,000K per boat, up to five pas-
sengers).
Wild elephants used to make regular appearances near the village of Ban Na, however,
sadly, the elephants have now vanished. In 2007 there was an estimated 25-strong herd in
Phu Khao Khuay; in 2009, five were killed - stripped of their tusks and hind legs; and in
2010 a further two were recorded dead; according to the Lao Army, they had been electro-
cuted by lightning. There should still be 18 elephants from the 2007 tally of 25, but their
whereabouts are unknown.
Village guides lead one-, two- and three-day treks from Ban Na to Keng Khani (three to
four hours one way), through deep forest to the waterfall of Tat Fa (four to five hours) and
to the elephant observation tower at Pung Xay (4km). The one-hour trek to this tower is
easy, passing by plantations and through the edge of the jungle itself. The tower overlooks
a salt lick, which the elephants used to visit regularly. Trekkers sleep in the tower
(100,000K per person) beneath a mosquito net on a mattress, and guides cook a tasty local
dinner. Despite the absence of the elephants, it's fun.
Homestay-style accommodation is also available for 30,000K per person per night, with
an additional 30,000K per person for food. The prices do not include transport from Vien-
tiane and are not negotiable. All money goes to the village and NPA. To contact Ban Na
directly, call Lao-speaking Mr Bounthanom.