Cambodia - Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and Northern Thailand - page 492

spiced river fish wrapped in banana leaves). The south end of the psar (market) turns into
a carnival of barbecue stands hawking meat-on-a-stick by night.

Red Sun Falling
MAP
(Rue Preah Suramarit; mains 7000-14,000r; 7am-9pm; ) One of the liveliest spots in town,
with a relaxed cafe ambience, a supreme riverfront location, used books for sale and a
good selection of Asian and Western meals.

INTERNATIONAL $

Tokae Restaurant
MAP
(St 10; mains US$2-3; 6am-11pm; ) Although French-run, the focus at this lively restaur-
ant underneath Star Backpackers is very much on cheap Cambodian food.

CAMBODIAN $

Information

All of the recommended guesthouses are pretty switched on to travellers' needs. Silver
Dolphin Guesthouse has public internet access (per hour 3000r).

Canadia Bank (Rue Preah Suramarit) ATM offering free cash withdrawals, plus currency ex-
change.

Getting There & Around

Kratie is 348km northeast of Phnom Penh (250km via Chhlong) and 141km south of
Stung Treng.
Phnom Penh Sorya ( 081 908005) operates three buses per day to Phnom Penh (US$8,
eight hours) along the slow route (via Snuol); Sorya's bus from Laos comes through at
roughly 3.30pm and goes to Phnom Penh via the much-shorter Chhlong route (six hours).
Sorya buses to Siem Reap involve a change in Suong.
Going the other way, Sorya's bus from Phnom Penh to Pakse, Laos (US$20, eight
hours) via Stung Treng collects passengers in Kratie at about 11.30am. Sorya also has a
1pm bus to Ban Lung (US$8, five hours) and a 3pm bus to Stung Treng (US$5, three
hours).
Share taxis (US$10) head to Phnom Penh between 6am and 8am, with possible addi-
tional departures after lunch. Other destinations include Snuol (10,000r), Kompong Cham
(30,000r) and Stung Treng (25,000r). The taxi park is just north of the market.