Cambodia - Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and Northern Thailand - page 459

Preah Khan
(admission US$5) Covering almost 5 sq km in remote Preah Vihear Province, Preah Khan -
not to be confused with the temple of the same name at Angkor - is the largest temple en-
closure constructed during the Angkorian period, quite a feat when you consider the com-
petition. Thanks to its back-of-beyond location, the site is astonishingly quiet and peace-
ful. Tragically, much of the enclosure, including the central temple complex, was devast-
ated by looters in the 1990s.
Traditionally, Preah Khan has been the toughest of the remote Angkorian temples to
reach, but upgraded provincial highways have improved things. Turn west off smooth
NH62 in Svay Pak, about 64km south of Preah Vihear City and 93km north of Kompong
Thom. From here an all-season dirt road via Sangkum Thmei commune takes you to Ta
Seng, about 56km from the highway, where a new dirt road leads 4km to the temple.
There's no public transport to Preah Khan, so you'll need to hire a moto or a taxi in
Preah Vihear City or Kompong Thom, or in Siem Reap for an extra-long day trip (pos-
sibly combined with Sambor Prei Kuk).

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

BANTEAY CHHMAR

The temple complex of Banteay Chhmar (admission US$5) was constructed by Cambodia's most
prolific builder, Jayavarman VII (r 1181-1219), on the site of a 9th-century temple. One of a handful
of Angkorian sites to feature the towering heads of Avalokiteshvaras, with their enigmatic smiles, the
12th-century temple is also renowned for its intricate carvings.
A pioneering community-based homestay program ( 012 237605;

[e-mail] ; r US$7) makes it possible to stay in and around Banteay Chhmar.
Rooms come with mosquito nets, fans that run when there's electricity (6pm to 10pm) and downstairs
bathrooms. Bikes can be rented for US$2 a day.
Near the temple's eastern entrance, rustic Banteay Chhmar Restaurant (mains US$1.50-4) serves
tasty Khmer food.
Banteay Chhmar can be visited on a long day trip from Siem Reap, or base youself in Sisophon,
61km south of the temple, where a moto /taxi costs US$20/50 return. You may be able to find a morn-
ing share taxi from Sisophon's Psar Thmei to the temple (15,000r, one hour).