Vietnam - Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and Northern Thailand - page 174

CENTRAL VIETNAM

With ancient history, compelling culture, incredible food and terrific beaches, central Viet-
nam is one of the must-see regions of the country. This is a region that packs in Hue (the
country's former imperial capital), the DMZ battle sites, and Hoi An, an exquisite architec-
tural gem that time forgot. Throw in the ancient religious capital of My Son, the extraordin-
ary cave systems of Phong Nha and nature reserves so dense that scientists discover new
creatures in them every few years, and the region's appeal is overwhelming.
Danang and Hue airports are the perfect gateways for visitors who want to avoid long
overland journeys.

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Phong Nha‒Ke Bang National Park

A Unesco World Heritage Site, the remarkable Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park con-

tains the oldest karst mountains in Asia and is riddled with hundreds of cave systems.
Its collection of stunning dry caves, terraced caves, towering stalagmites and glistening
crystal-edged stalactites represents nature on a very grand scale indeed.
Serious exploration only began in the 1990s, led by the British Cave Research Associ-
ation and Hanoi University. Cavers first penetrated deep into Phong Nha Cave, one of the
world's longest systems. In 2005 Paradise Cave was discovered, and in 2009 a team found
the world's largest cave - Son Doong.
Huge caverns and unknown cave networks are being discovered each year. Above
ground, most of this mountainous 885 sq km national park is near-pristine tropical ever-
green jungle, over 90% of which is primary forest. More than 100 types of mammal (in-
cluding 10 species of primate, tigers, elephants and the saola, a rare Asian antelope), 81
types of reptile and amphibian, and 300 varieties of bird have been logged in Phong Nha.
Until recently, access was strictly controlled by the Vietnamese military. Things are re-
laxing, but officially you are not allowed to hike here without a licensed tour operator.
The Phong Nha region is changing fast, with more and more accommodation options
opening. Son Trach village (population 3000) is the main centre, but it's a tiny place -
there's only one ATM and transport connections are poor.