Vietnam - Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and Northern Thailand - page 158

Bac Ha has a certain charm, though its stock of traditional old adobe houses is dwind-
ling and being replaced by concrete structures. Wood-smoke fills the morning air and
chickens and pigs poke around the back lanes. For six days a week Bac Ha slumbers, but
its lanes fill up to choking point each Sunday when tourists and Flower Hmong flood in
for the weekly market.

Sights

While you're here, check out the outlandish Vua Meo ('Cat King' House; 7.30-11.30am &
1.30-5pm) , a palace constructed in a bizarre 'oriental baroque' architectural style.
Bac Ha's Sunday market is a riot of colour and commerce, and while the influx of day-
trippers from Sapa is changing things, it's still a worthwhile and relatively accessible
place to visit. The ruou corn hooch produced by the Flower Hmong is so potent it can ig-
nite; there's an entire area devoted to it at the Sunday market.
Beyond town lie several interesting markets. Tour operators in Bac Ha can arrange day
trips to those listed here.

Can Cau Market
( 6am-1pm Sat) A Saturday morning market 20km north of Bac Ha that spills down a hill-
side with food stalls on one level and livestock at the bottom of the valley, including
plenty of dogs. Locals will implore you to drink the local ruou with them and you can't
fail to be impressed with the costumes of the Flower Hmong and Blue Hmong (look out
for the striking zigzag costume of the latter).
Some trips from Bac Ha include the option of an afternoon trek (for those still standing
after ruou shots) to the nearby village of Fu La.

MARKET

Coc Ly Market
( 6am-1pm Tue) The impressive Coc Ly market attracts Dzao, Flower H'mong, Tay and
Nung people from the surrounding hills. It's about 35km southwest of Bac Ha along reas-
onably good roads.

MARKET

Lung Phin Market
( 6am-1pm Sun) Lung Phin market is between Can Cau market and Bac Ha, about 12km
from town. It's less busy than other markets, with a really local feel, and is a good place to
move on to once the tour buses arrive in Bac Ha from Sapa.

MARKET