Vietnam - Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and Northern Thailand - page 157

DON'T MISS
EXPLORING THE FAR NORTH BY MOTORBIKE

With spectacular scenery and relatively minimal traffic, the northwest loop from Hanoi up to Lao Cai,
over to Dien Bien Phu and back to the capital is a truly memorable motorbike ride.
Hanoi is the place to start making arrangements. Consider joining a tour or hiring a guide, who will
know the roads and can help with mechanical and linguistic difficulties.
Get acquainted with your bike first and check current road conditions and routes. Most motorbikes
in Vietnam are under 250cc. Japanese road and trail bikes (US$20 to US$30 per day) are good choices
as they tend to be reliable and have decent shock absorbers and seat cushioning. You'll suffer on a
moped given the rough roads.
Essentials include a good helmet, a local mobile phone for emergencies, rain gear, a spare parts and
repair kit (including spark plugs, spanners, inner tube and tyre levers), an air pump and decent maps.
Knee and elbow pads and gloves are also a good idea.
Highways can be hell in Vietnam, so let the train take the strain on the long route north to Lao Cai.
Load your bike into a goods carriage while you sleep in a berth. You'll have to (almost) drain it of pet-
rol.
If you're planning on riding from Dien Bien Phu via Muong Lay and Lai Chau on Hwy 12 to Sapa,
check road conditions first. At the time of writing, the 40km after Muong Lay to Lai Chau was very
rough with many roadworks. Highway 12 was scheduled to be completed by August 2014, so it
should be OK once this edition is published.
Take it slowly, particularly in the rain. Do not ride during or immediately after heavy rainstorms as
this is when landslides might occur; many mountain roads are quite new and the cliff embankments
can be unstable. Expect to average about 35km per hour. Only use safe hotel parking. Fill up from pet-
rol stations where the petrol is less likely to have been watered down.
If running short on time or energy, remember that many bus companies will let you put your bike on
the roof of a bus, but get permission first from your bike rental company.
Recommended specialists in Hanoi include Cuong's Motorbike Adventure ( 0913 518 772;
www.cuongs-motorbike-adventure.com ; 46 P Gia Ngu; 8am-6pm) and Offroad Vietnam (
0913 047 509; www.offroadvietnam.com ; 36 P Nguyen Huu Huan; 8am-6pm Mon-Sat).

TOP OF CHAPTER

Bac Ha

020 / POP 7400
An unhurried and friendly town, Bac Ha makes a relaxed base for exploring the northern
highlands and hill-tribe villages. The atmosphere is very different from Sapa, and you can
walk the streets freely without being accosted by hawkers. The climate here is also notice-
ably warmer than in Sapa.