Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
escarpment, the magnificently restored late-Victorian (1884) timber enclosure at the tidal
Dawn Fraser Baths ( 9555 1903; www.lpac.nsw.gov.au ; adult/child $4.20/$3; 7.15am-6.30pm Oct-
Apr) picturesquely protects swimmers from underwater undesirables. Australia's all-con-
quering 1956-64 Olympian Dawn Fraser sacrificed her youth here swimming laps.
YURULBIN POINT
(Louisa Rd; Birchgrove) On the northern tip of the Balmain peninsula (technically Birch-
grove), this narrow point stretches to within 300m of the North Shore. Once called Long
Nose Point, it was a shipyard until 1971, when it became a public park, reverting to its in-
digenous name (meaning 'swift running water') in 1994.
PARK
PARRAMATTA RIVER
Sydney Harbour gets all the attention but a jaunt upriver to the geographical centre of the metropolis is just as
interesting. As you pass old industrial sites and gaze into millionaire's back yards, a window opens onto a wa-
tery world in the heart of Sydney where school rowing crews get put through their paces, groups of mates glide
pasts on yachts, solo kayakers work up a sweat and Mediterranean men fish off the wharves at night.
In geological terms the harbour is actually a drowned river valley, which makes it very hard to distinguish
what's harbour and what's river, but as you glide past Cockatoo Island, where the Parramatta and Lane Cove
Rivers meet, it's river all the way.
The ferry from Circular Quay to Parramatta takes about 1¼ hours (adult/child $7/3.50), although on some
low tides the boats stop at Rydalmere, one wharf earlier, and a bus continues from there. If you feel like making
a day of it, Sydney Olympic Park and Parramatta both have a smattering of interesting sights. And if you want
to speed up your return trip, both are connected to the train network.
Sydney's reserves of glamour are running dry by the time you get as far west as Parramatta. The second
European settlement in Australia, Parramatta was founded by First Fleet convict labour when Sydney Cove
proved to be lousy for growing vegies. Originally called Rose Hill (despite the nearest roses being half a world
away), the town became known by what is actually a mis-hearing of its Darug Aboriginal name, Burramatta. It
roughly translates to 'place of the eels'; the slippery critters are now the mascot of Parramatta's rugby league
team. Consumed by Sydney's westward sprawl, Parramatta is a bland commercial centre, with some historic
gems nestled among the mostly dreary modern developments.
From the wharf, follow the river west to the knowledgable Parramatta Heritage & Visitor Information Centre
( CLICK HERE ) and grab a map of key sights. The centre is a museum in its own right, with temporary exhibits by
local artists, as well as a permanent exhibition on Parramatta's history and culture.
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