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upper slopes, their sewage flowing to the slums below. Residents sloshed through open sewers, and alleyways
festered with disease and drunken lawlessness. Thus began a long, steady decline.
Bubonic plague broke out in 1900, leading to the razing of entire streets, and Harbour Bridge construction in
the 1920s wiped out even more. It wasn't until the 1970s that The Rocks' cultural and architectural heritage was
finally recognised. Redevelopment saved many old buildings by converting them into tourist-focused busi-
nesses. Shops hocking Opera House key rings proliferate, but gritty history is never far below the surface if you
know where to look.
The Rocks
GALLERY
MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP
(MCA; 9245 2400; www.mca.com.au ; 140 George St; 10am-5pm Fri-Wed, to 9pm Thu; Circular Quay)
A slice of Gotham City on Circular Quay West, the stately art-deco MCA has been raising
even the most open-minded Sydney eyebrows since 1991. Constantly changing, often
controversial exhibitions from Australia and overseas range from the incredibly hip to in-
your-face, sexually explicit and profoundly disturbing. You'll also find Aboriginal art fea-
tured prominently. Quite simply, it's one of Australia's best and most challenging galler-
ies.
At the time of research the MCA was closed for a $53-million redevelopment, grafting
on the ultramodern cubic jumble of the new Mordant Family Wing. We're looking for-
ward to taking in the view over Circular Quay from the new indoor-outdoor cafe on the
4th floor.
MUSEUM
THE ROCKS DISCOVERY MUSEUM
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP
( 9240 8680; www.rocksdiscoverymuseum.com ; Kendall Lane; 10am-5pm; Circular Quay) Divided
into four chronological displays - Warrane (pre-1788), Colony (1788-1820), Port
(1820-1900) and Transformations (1900 to the present) - this excellent museum digs deep
into The Rocks' history and leads you on an artefact-rich tour. Sensitive attention is given
to The Rocks' original inhabitants, the Cadigal people.
SUSANNAH PLACE MUSEUM
MUSEUM
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