Northeastern Thailand - Thailand - page 961

GETTING TO LAOS: BUENG KAN TO PAKSAN
Although it's very rarely done, you can cross the Mekong here to Paksan, but only if you already have your Lao
visa.
Getting To the Border Immigration (8am to 6pm) is 2.5km northwest of town. A túk-túk will cost about 60B.
At the Border Boats cross the river between 8.30am and noon and between 1 and 4.30pm when they have about
20 passengers. During lunch and after 4.30pm you'll probably need to charter the whole boat for 1000B.
Moving On Túk-túk wait on the Lao shore, though the highway and a few hotels are an easy walk from the land-
ing.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Wat Phu Tok
With its network of rickety staircases and walkways built in, on and around a giant sand-
stone outcrop, Wat Phu Tok (Isolated Mountain Temple; admission free; 6am-5pm, closed 10-16 April) is
one of the region's wonders. The precarious paths lead past shrines and gù·đì that are
scattered around the mountain on cliffs and in caves, and provide fabulous views over the
surrounding countryside. A final scramble up roots and rocks takes you to the forest on
the summit, which is considered the seventh level. If you hustle and take all the short cuts
you can be up and down in about an hour, but we advise against it: this is a climb that
should be savoured. The quiet isolation entices monks and mâa chee (nuns) from across
Thailand to come meditate, so be quiet and respectful as you explore.
This forest temple used to be the domain of the famous meditation master Luang Pu
Juan, a disciple of Luang Pu Man. He died in a plane crash in 1980 along with several
other highly revered forest monks who were flying to Bangkok for Queen Sirikit's birth-
day celebration. A marble chedi containing Luang Pu Juan's belongings, some bone relics
and fantastic exterior sculptures sits below the mountain amid a gorgeous garden.
Getting There & Away
Túk-túk in Bueng Kan charge 800B for the return journey to Wat Phu Tok, including a
few hours waiting time. It's cheaper to take a bus from Bueng Kan to Ban Siwilai (30B,
45 minutes), where túk-túk drivers will do the trip for 350B. If you catch an early bus to
Bueng Kan, Wat Phu Tok can be visited as a day trip from Nong Khai, although there's no