Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE GARDEN OF ISAN
The Phu Ruea region is famous for its flower farms and there's a riot of colours along the roadside. The cool, dry
climate allows farmers to grow a variety of crops not common in Isan, such as strawberries, coffee (the Coffee
Bun chain is based here and their blend includes Loei-grown beans), macadamia nuts, petunias and persimmon.
One stop that most travellers with their own wheels make is
Chateau de Loei
( 0 4280 9521;
www.chateaudeloei.com
; Rte 203, Km 61; 8am-5pm) , which released the first commercially produced Thai
wine in 1995. It's a penny-ante operation compared to the attractive and well-managed wineries around Khao Yai,
but visitors are welcome to taste its wines and brandies way back in the utilitarian main building.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Dan Sai
For 362 days a year, Dan Sai is an innocuous little town where life revolves around a
small market and a dusty main street. For the remaining three days, however, it's the site
of one of the country's liveliest and loudest festivals. As its normal, peaceful self, the
town won't appeal to everyone; but for people who appreciate slow travel and want a
good look at local life, Dan Sai (in large part because of its homestay program) delivers in
spades.
DON'T MISS
DAN SAI'S PHI TA KHON FESTIVAL
Falling during the fourth lunar month, Dan Sai's
Phi Ta Khon Festival
(also called Bun Phra Wet) combines the
Phra Wet Festival - during which recitations of the Mahavessantara Jataka (a story about one of the Buddha's
past lives) are supposed to enhance the listener's chance of being reborn in the lifetime of the next Buddha - with
Bun Bâng Fai (Rocket Festival). For those wishing to plunge headlong into Isan life, this curious cross between
the drunken revelry of Carnival and the spooky imagery of Halloween is a must-see.
The origins of the Phi Ta Khon Festival are shrouded in ambiguity, but some aspects appear to be related to tri-
bal Tai (possibly Tai Dam) spirit cults. The dates for the festival (usually June) are divined by Jao Phaw Kuan, a
local spirit medium who channels the information from the town's guardian deity. On the first day Jao Phaw
Kuan performs a sacrifice to invite Phra Upakud (an enlightened monk with supernatural powers who chose to
transform himself into a block of white marble to live eternally on the bottom of the Man River) to come to town.
Locals then don wild costumes and masks for two days of dancing that's fuelled by
lôw kŏw
(rice whisky) and is
full of sexual innuendo, before launching the rockets and heading to the temple to listen to sermons on the third
day.
Sights & Activities
