Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Nong Khai
POP 61,500
As a major staging post for those on their way from Laos, Nong Khai is the only Isan
town with a fully fledged backpacker scene, albeit a modest one. But Nong Khai's pop-
ularity is about more than just its proximity to Vientiane and bounty of banana pancakes.
Seduced by its dreamy pink sunsets and sluggish pace of life, many visitors who mean to
stay one night end up bedding down for many more.
History
Crammed between nations, Nong Khai is both a historic and physical bridgehead between
Thailand and Laos. Nong Khai once fell within the boundaries of the Vientiane (Wiang
Chan) kingdom, which itself vacillated between independence and tribute to Lan Xang
and Siam. In 1827 Rama III gave a Thai lord, Thao Suwothamma, the rights to establish
Meuang Nong Khai at the present city site, which he chose because the surrounding
swamps
(nong)
would aid in the city's defence.
In 1891, under Rama V, Nong Khai became the capital of
monthon
Lao Phuan, an early
Isan satellite state that included what are now Udon, Loei, Khon Kaen, Sakon Nakhon,
Nakhon Phanom and Nong Khai Provinces, as well as Vientiane. But, when western Laos
was partitioned off from Thailand by the French in 1893, the French demanded that Thail-
and have no soldiers within 25km of the border and so the capital was moved to Udon Th-
ani, leaving Nong Khai's fortunes to fade.
One hundred and one years later, the opening of the US$30 million, 1174m-long
Saphan Mittaphap Thai-Lao (Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge) marked a new era of develop-
ment for Nong Khai as a regional trade and transport centre. The skyline has been creep-
ing slowly upwards ever since.
