Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
(mythical serpents) in the classic Angkor style. As at all Khmer temple, these represent
the passing from the earthly realm to the heavenly.
After crossing this bridge and climbing the stairs you come to the magnificent
east gallery
leading into the main sanctuary. The
main tower
has a gallery on each of its four sides and
the entrance to each gallery is itself a smaller version of the main tower.
The craftsmanship at Phanom Rung represents the pinnacle of Khmer artistic achieve-
ment, on par with the reliefs at Angkor Wat in Cambodia. Excellent sculptures of both
Shaiva and Vaishnava deities can be seen in the lintels and pediments over the doorways
to the central monuments, and in various other key points on the sanctuary exterior. On
the east portico of the
mon·dòp
is a Nataraja (Dancing Shiva), which is late Baphuon or
early Angkor style, while on the south entrance are the remains of Shiva and Uma riding
their bull mount, Nandi. The central cell of the
Ъ rah·sàht
contains a Shivalingam (phallus
image) and in front of it is an evocotive Nandi statue.
VISHNU & THE KING OF POP
Phanom Rung's most famous carving is the
Narai Bandhomsindhu lintel
, which depicts a reclining Vishnu
('Phra Narai' in Thai) in the Hindu creation myth. Growing from his navel is a lotus that branches into several
blossoms, on one of which sits the creator god, Brahma. Vishnu is asleep on the milky sea of eternity, here repres-
ented by a
naga
and alongside him are heads of Kala, the god of time and death. This lintel sits above the eastern
gate (the main entrance) beneath the impressive dancing Shiva relief.
Its fame stems not from its beauty, but from its role in a quarter-century-long whodunnit-cum-David-versus-
Goliath tale that began in 1965 when it was discovered to have been stolen. (It likely went missing several years
earlier, but nobody noticed.) In 1972 it was found on display at the Art Institute of Chicago and Thailand pressed
for its return. Superstars Carabao helped the cause with their song 'Thaplang' (Lintel) featuring the line 'Take
back Michael Jackson, Give us Phra Narai'. Phra Narai finally came home in 1988, the year the Phanom Rung
restoration was finished.
Getting There & Away
Sŏrng·tăa·ou
(25B, 30 minutes, every half-hour) from in front of the old market (
nâh
đà·làht sòt
) on the east end of town in Nang Rong and Chanthaburi-bound buses from the
bus station (
Click here
)
on the west side of town go to Ban Ta Pek where motorcycle taxi
drivers charge 200B to Phanom Rung, including waiting time.
Coming from or heading to Ubon Ratchathani (263B, 4½ hours, hourly), Surin (80B,
two hours, every half-hour), Khorat (75-95B, two hours, hourly), Pak Chong (122B, 2½
hours, hourly) or Bangkok (231-275B, five hours, hourly), you have the option of getting
off at Ban Tako, a well-marked turn-off about 14km east of Nang Rong, and waiting for
