Northeastern Thailand - Thailand - page 844

trail from the visitor centre or a 3km path starting at Km 33. The latter is better for seeing
wildlife along the way and is one of Khao Yai's best birdwatching walks. To get to the
Nam Tok Haew Suwat waterfall, try the mildly challenging, 8km-long Kong Kaew-Haew
Suwat Trail (Trail 1), which starts behind the visitor centre.
While the Kong Kaew-Haew Suwat Trail and walks to the tower don't require a guide,
hiring one is highly recommended (except for the short route to the observation tower) be-
cause the trails aren't well trodden or well marked. We've heard from travellers who got
lost and were forced to sleep in the forest overnight. Park rangers can be hired as guides
(half-/full day 500/1000B per group) through the visitor centre. They can also lead you on
longer off-trail treks.
No matter where you hike, you should wear boots and long trousers. During the rainy
season leeches are a problem; mosquito repellent helps keep them away, but the leech
socks sold in the visitor centre are much better.

BEYOND THE FOREST

The greater Pak Chong region is a very popular escape for Bangkokians, and for many of them the national park
is beside the point. The roads approaching Khao Yai from the north are lined with enough BB-gun shooting
ranges, sweet-corn stands, shopping malls and other tourist traps for families to stay busy all weekend without
ever thinking about nature.
An almost mandatory stop is Farm Chokchai ( 0 4432 8386; www.farmchokchai.com ; Mittaphap Hwy,
Km159; 9am-7pm) , a 32-sq-km dairy farm overflowing with cowboy kitsch. The expanding empire now in-
cludes an ice-cream parlour, steakhouse, a souvenir shop and a safari-style tented camp (weekday/weekend per
adult from 2490/2990B). There are 2½-hour tours (adult/child 300/150B; 10am & 2pm Tue-Fri, every 20min
9-11.40am 1-3.40pm Sat, Sun & holidays, reservations essential) of the milking parlour, petting zoo and cowboy
show.
For some actual Thai culture, there's the excellent Khao Yai Art Museum ( 0 4475 6060;

www.khaoyaiartmuseum.com ; 9am-6pm) , which has three rooms of modern art from some of Thai-
land's top artists including Anupong Chantorn and Lampu Kansanoh. It's 4km east of Th Thanarat at Km 15; turn
at the police box.
Thailand is the pioneer of 'New Latitude Wines' and with over a dozen wineries in the area, the Khao Yai area
is now the epicentre of this increasingly respectable industry. Two of the leaders, PB Valley ( 0 3622 6415;
www.khaoyaiwinery.com ; tour 200B; tours 10.30am, 1.30pm & 3.30pm) , which corked its first bottle in
1998, and GranMonte ( 0 4400 9544; www.granmonte.com ; tours 11am, 1pm & 3pm Sat, Sun & holi-
days ) , which got into the game three years later) lie along Muak Lek road (exit Km 144), the direct route from
Bangkok to Khao Yai. Both are scenically set and offer tours (book in advance), tastings, luxury lodging and
classy restaurants for lunch and dinner. They're 22.5km and 16km respectively from the park gate.
Life Park (Km19.5; per activity 160-640B; 9am-6pm) , near the park gate at the Greenery Resort, is Khao
Yai's biggest adventure park. It has go-karts, paintball, a giant swing and more.