Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
LONG-NECKED KAYAN VILLAGES
These villages are Mae Hong Son's most touted - and most controversial - tourist attraction. The 'long-necked'
moniker originates from the habit of some Kayan women (sometimes also referred to as Padaung, a Shan term) of
wearing heavy brass coils around their necks. The coils depress the collarbone and rib cage, which makes their
necks look unnaturally stretched. A common myth claims if the coils are removed, a woman's neck will fall over
and she will suffocate. In fact, the women attach and remove the coils at will and there is no evidence that this de-
formation impairs their health at all.
Nobody knows for sure how the coil custom got started. One theory is that it was meant to make the women
unattractive to men from other tribes. Another story says it was so tigers wouldn't carry the women off by their
throats. Most likely it is nothing more than a simple fashion accessory. Until relatively recently the custom was
largely dying out, but money from tourism, and undoubtedly the influence of local authorities eager to cash in on
the Kayan, have reinvigorated it.
Regardless of the origin, the villages are now on every group tour's itinerary, and have become a significant
tourist draw for Mae Hong Son. The villages are often derided as human zoos, and there are certainly elements of
this, but we find them more like bizarre rural markets, with the women earning much of their money by selling
tacky souvenirs and drinks. The Kayan we've talked to claim to be happy with their current situation, but the
stateless position they share with all Burmese refugees is nothing to be envied, and these formerly independent
farmers are now reliant on aid and tourists to survive. A report on the villages by journalist Patrick Winn can be
Any of the three Kayan settlements outside Mae Hong Son can be visited independently, if you have transport-
ation, or any travel agency in Mae Hong Son can arrange a tour. The most-touted Kayan village is
Huai Seua
Thao
, about 7km from Mae Hong Son. More remote, but definitely not off the beaten track, is
Kayan Tayar
,
near the Shan village of Ban Nai Soi, 35km northwest of Mae Hong Son. Another 'long-necked' community is
based at
Huay Pu Keng
and is included on long-tail boat tours departing from Tha Pong Daeng. All collect an
entry fee from non-Thais of 250B per person.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Khun Yuam
Between Mae Sariang and Mae Hong Son, where all northbound buses make their
halfway stop, is the quiet hillside town of Khun Yuam. There are a couple of places to stay
and a few notable sights, and this little-visited town is a nice break from more 'experien-
ced' destinations nearby.
Sights
Khun Yuam's sights are located outside of town and you'll need private transport to reach
them.
Thai-Japan Friendship
Memorial Hall
MUSEUM
