Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
THE CAVES OF PANGMAPHA
The 900-sq-km area of Pangmapha district is famous for its high concentration of cave systems - over 200 have
been found. Apart from Tham Lot, one of its most famous is Tham Nam Lang , which is 20km northwest of
Soppong near Ban Nam Khong. It's 8.5km long and said to be one of the largest caves in the world in terms of
volume.
Many of the caves are essentially underground river systems, some of which boast waterfalls, lakes and sandy
'beaches'. Cryptotora thamicola, an eyeless, waterfall-climbing troglobitic fish that forms its own genus, is found
in only two caves in the world, both of which are in Pangmapha. Other caves contain little or no life, due to an
abundance of noxious gases or very little oxygen.
More than 85 of the district's 200 limestone caverns are known to contain ancient teak coffins carved from sol-
id teak logs. Up to 9m long, the coffins are typically suspended on wooden scaffolds inside the caves. The coffins
have been carbon-dated and shown to be between 1200 and 2200 years old. The ends are usually carved and Thai
archaeologists have identified at least 50 different design schemes.
The local Shans know these burial caves as tâm pěe (spirit caves) or tâm pěe maan (coffin caves). It is not
known who made them or why they were placed in the caves, but as most caves have fewer than 10 coffins it in-
dicates that not everyone was accorded such an elaborate burial. Similar coffins have been found in karst areas
west of Bangkok and also in Borneo, China and the Philippines, but the highest concentration of coffin caves
from this period is in Pangmapha.
The easiest coffins to visit are in the coffin cave (admission 20B; 8.30am-5pm) just past Pangmapha Hos-
pital, 2km west of Soppong, and the coffin caves in Tham Lot, 9km northeast of Soppong. Several caves that sci-
entists are investigating at the moment are off limits to the public, but John Spies at Cave Lodge may know which
caves are possible to explore. His book, Wild Times, is also a great informal guide to the area's caves.
Activities
Cave Lodge has experienced local guides and arranges recommended kayaking, trekking
and caving trips in the area. It is located near Tham Lot, 9km from Soppong.
Poodoi Namfaa Tour &
TREKKING, RAFTING
Trekking
( 08 4372 5295; 8am-8pm) This outfit can arrange various outdoor pursuits, all led by loc-
al Musoe, Lisu and Karen guides. The emphasis is on two-day rafting trips along the Nam
Khong and Nam Pai rivers (1500B per person, at least four people, all-inclusive). Two-
day treks start at 800B per person (at least two people). The office is at the far western
edge of town.
Sleeping & Eating
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