Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
NORTHERN NOSH
Much like the language, Thailand's food seems to take a slightly different form every time you cross a provincial
border. The cuisine of Thailand's northern provinces is no exception and is indicative of the region's seasonal and
relatively cool climate, not to mention a love for pork, veggies and all things deep-fried. Traditionally, the resid-
ents of Thailand's north ate almost exclusively
kôw nĕe·o (
sticky rice) known in the local dialect as
kôw nêung
.
Coconut milk rarely makes its way into the northern kitchen, and northern Thai cuisine is probably the most sea-
sonal and least spicy of Thailand's regional schools of cooking, often relying on bitter or other dried spice fla-
vours.
Paradoxically (and unfortunately), it can be quite difficult to find authentic local food in northern Thailand.
Outside of Chiang Mai and the other large cities in northern Thailand, there are relatively few restaurants serving
northern-style dishes, and the vast majority of authentic local food is sold from stalls in 'to go' bags. However, if
you manage to come across a restaurant serving northern-style food, some must-try dishes include:
»
Gaang hang·lair
- Burmese in origin (
hang
is a corruption of the Burmese
hin,
meaning curry), this rich pork
curry is often seen at festivals and ceremonies. Try a bowl at Mae Si Bua (
Click here
) in Mae Hong Son.
»
Kâap mŏo -
Deep-fried pork crackling is a common, delicious side dish in northern Thailand.
»
Kôw gân jîn
- Banana-leaf packets of rice mixed with blood, steamed and served with garlic oil. A popular
snack in Mae Hong Son.
»
Kôw soy
- This popular curry-based noodle dish is possibly Burmese in origin and was probably introduced to
northern Thailand by travelling Chinese merchants. A mild but tasty version is available at Khao Soi Phor Jai
(
Click here
)
in Chiang Rai.
»
Ka
̀
·nŏm jeen na
́
m ngée·o -
Fresh rice noodles served with a meaty and tart pork- and tomato-based broth. An
excellent bowl can be got at Paa Suk (
Click here
), in Chiang Rai.
»
Lâhp kôo·a -
Literally 'fried
lâhp'
, this dish takes the famous Thai minced-meat 'salad' and fries it with a mix-
ture of unique dried spices. Try the version at Pu Som Restaurant (
Click here
)
in Nan.
»
Lôo
- Raw blood mixed with a curry paste and served over deep-fried intestines and crispy noodles - the most
hardcore northern dish of all, and one often associated with Phrae Province.
»
Năam -
Fermented raw pork, a sour delicacy that tastes much better than it sounds.
»
Nám prík nùm -
Green chillies, shallots and garlic that are grilled then mashed into a stringy and spicy paste
served with sticky rice, parboiled veggies and deep-fried pork crackling. Try it at Phu-Lae (
Click here
), in Chiang
Rai.
»
Nám prík òrng -
A chilli dip of Shan origin made from tomatoes and minced pork - a northern Thai bolognese
of sorts. Available at Banpleng (
Click here
), in Mae Hong Son.
»
Sâi o
̀
o·a -
A grilled pork sausage seasoned with copious fresh herbs. Available at Jinda's Kitchen (
Click here
),
outside Chiang Saen.
»
Ðam sôm oh
- The northern Thai version of
sôm·đam
substitutes pomelo for green papaya.
»
Ðôm yam
- The northern Thai version of this Thai soup staple is flavoured with some of the same dried spices
that feature in
lâhp kôo·a
.
