Northern Thailand - Thailand - page 691

Eating
Phitsanulok takes its cuisine seriously. The city is particularly obsessive about night mar-
kets, and there are no fewer than three dotted in various locations around town. The most
touted, Phitsanulok's night bazaar ( Click here ) , focuses mainly on clothing, but the south-
ernmost restaurant along the strip specialises in pàk bûng loy fáh (literally 'floating-in-
the-sky morning glory'), in which the cook fires up a batch of pàk bûng in the wok and
then flings it through the air to a waiting server who catches it on a plate. If you're lucky,
you'll be here when a tour group is trying to catch the flying vegetables, but actually drop-
ping pàk bûng all over the place. Another night market OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP (Th Phra Ong
Dam; mains 30-60B; 5pm-midnight) lines either side of Th Phra Ong Dam north of Th
Authong, and there's a very busy night market OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP (off Th Akatossaroth; mains
30-60B; 4-8pm) just south of the train station that features mostly takeaway items includ-
ing kôw nĕe·o hòr, tiny banana-leaf parcels of sticky rice with various toppings. There are
two vendors opposite each other near the Th Akatossaroth entrance to the market.
Another dish associated with Phitsanulok is gŏo·ay đĕe·o hôy kàh (literally meaning,
'legs-hanging' noodles). The name comes from the way customers sit on the floor facing
the river, with their legs dangling below. Rim Nan (5/4 Th Phutta Bucha, no roman-script sign; mains
20-35B; 9am-4pm) , north of Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat, is one of a few similar restaur-
ants along Th Phutta Bucha that offer noodles and 'alternative' seating.

Paknang
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CHINESE-THAI $

(Th Sairuthai; mains 40-280B; 10am-10pm) This corner of old Phitsanulok has a distinctly old-
world Chinese feel - an excellent pairing with the tasty Chinese-style dishes at this long-
standing restaurant.

Fah-Ke-Rah
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(786 Th Phra Ong Dam, no roman-script sign; mains 20-60B; 6am-9pm) There are several Thai-Muslim
cafes near the Pakistan Mosque on Th Phra Ong Dam, and this is one of the better ones.
Thick roh·đee (crispy dough 'pancakes') is served up with gaang mát·sà·màn (Muslim
curry) and fresh yoghurt is made daily.

MUSLIM-THAI $

Jaroen Tham
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VEGETARIAN-THAI $