Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
THE LONG WAY TO PHAYAO
If you're in Chiang Khong and happen to have your own wheels, we have an excellent suggestion for a drive.
Rtes 1155 and 1093 are among Thailand's most dramatic roads, hugging steep mountainsides along the Thail-
and-Laos border and passing waterfalls, incredible vistas and national parks. If you need a destination you can
continue all the way to Phayao, a little-visited town with ample accommodation and good food.
From Chiang Khong, the trip is as straightforward as heading south on Rte 1020 and following the signs to
Phu Chi Fa , a national park near the Lao border. The signs are surprisingly clear for Thailand, but a good com-
panion is the Golden Triangle map produced by Golden Triangle Rider (GT Rider; www.gt-rider.com ) .
At the mountaintop village of Doi Pha Tang, consider a quick detour to Pratu Siam (1653m), one of Thail-
and's most impressive viewpoints. There is basic lodging and food here.
Rte 1093 narrows and the roadside becomes markedly less populated as you approach Phu Chi Fa, a mountain-
top that offers high-altitude views into Laos. There are a few different ways to approach the peak, the most popu-
lar being via Ban Rom Fah Thai. There is a variety of accommodation and some basic restaurants on either side
of Phu Chi Fa.
Upon passing Phu Chi Fa, stay on Rte 1093 and follow the signs to Ban Huak . This is a picturesque village in
Phayao Province, 2km from the Lao border. There's a border market on the 10th and 30th of every month,and
homestay-style accommodation in the town, and nearby Nam Tok Phu Sang is a unique waterfall of thermally
heated water.
From Ban Huak, follow signs to Chiang Kham, then take Rte 1021 to Chun, from where it's a straight shot to
Phayao (via Dok Kham Tai).
If you do the drive in one go, allow at least six hours, including stops for taking photos, coffee and a meal.
Sights & Activities
Kwan Phayao
( Th Chaykawan) This vast body of water is the largest swamp in northern Thailand and a
symbol of Phayao. Although naturally occurring, the water level is artificially controlled,
otherwise the wetlands would tend to go dry outside of the wet season. Framed by moun-
tains, the swamp is in fact more scenic than the name suggests, and is the setting for what
must be among the most beautiful sunsets in Thailand.
Rowing crews can be seen practising in the evenings, and there's a pier at the southern
end of Th Chai Kwan where there are boat rides (per person 20B; 8am-6pm) to what remains of
Wat Tiloke Aram , a submerged 500-year-old temple. There are ambitious plans to rebuild the
temple, one of many submerged religious structures in Kwan Phayao.
In addition to lost Buddhist artefacts, there are at least 50 types of fish native to these
waters, and there's a small fish breeding area where for 5B you can feed the fish.
LANDMARK
Wat Sri Khom Kham
BUDDHIST TEMPLE
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