Northern Thailand - Thailand - page 617

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
BAN THOET THAI

In a narrow river valley about 20km north of Mae Salong, Ban Thoet Thai ( บ้านเทอดไทย ) is a multi-ethnic vil-
lage with a remote, border-town vibe and an interesting back story.
The village is probably most famous for having formerly served as the base of Khun Sa, the Shan narco-war-
lord known as the 'Opium King'. Until the early 1980s, proximity to the Golden Triangle, rough mountainous ter-
rain and lack of sealed roads meant that the outside world was essentially cut off from Ban Thoet Thai (then
known as Ban Hin Taek - Broken Stone Village), allowing Khun Sa to establish a virtual monopoly on the world
opium trade (for more on the Golden Triangle and Khun Sa, Click here ). Displays on the man (don't miss the VIP
Living Room that boasts a creepy life-sized model of Khun Sa) and on Shan culture and history can be seen at the

Khunsa Museum ( 8am-5pm) , located in his former headquarters, about 500m north of the market

area.
Ban Thoet Thai was also allegedly the first settlement of Akha in Thailand, and today is also home to many
Shan and Chinese, not to mention other groups including Thai Lü, Lahu, Hmong, Lua and Liso. Approximately
6km northwest of town along a very steep road is Ban Ah Hai , a picturesque Akha village that's also home to a
unique adobe Buddhist temple. The owner of Rim Taan Guest House can provide directions or even lead an in-
formal tour.
The best place to stay is Rim Taan Guest House ( 0 5373 0209; r & bungalows 350-2000B; ) ,
located roughly in the middle of town, with basic fan bungalows and air-con rooms in an attractive stream-side
garden. Next door, Restaurant Ting Ting (mains 40-150B; 7am-9pm) has a thick English-language menu of
tasty Chinese dishes. There are ATMs at the town's 7-Eleven and an internet cafe (per hour 20B; 9am-11pm)

nearby.
To Ban Thoet Thai, so ̆ rng·ta ̆ a·ou depart when full from Ban Pasang, just off Asia 1 Hwy; in the opposite direc-
tion, trucks depart from Ban Thoet Thai's market area from 6am to 5pm (60B, one hour). It's also possible to hop
on a sŏrng·tăa·ou at the crossroads village of Samyaek, 12km east of Mae Salong.

Sights

A tiny but quite interesting morning market convenes from 6am to 8am at the T-intersection
near Shin Sane Guest House. The market attracts town residents and tribespeople from the
surrounding districts. An all-day market forms at the southern end of town and unites
vendors selling hill-tribe handicrafts, shops selling tea and a few basic restaurants.
To soak up the great views from Wat Santikhiri go past the market and ascend 718 steps
(or drive if you have a car). The wát is of the Mahayana tradition and Chinese in style.
Past Khumnaiphol Resort and further up the hill is a viewpoint with some teashops, and a
famous KMT general's tomb . It is sometimes guarded by a former soldier who will de-
scribe (in Thai or Yunnanese) the history of the KMT in the area. In the same vein and
south of the turn-off to the tomb is the Chinese Martyr's Memorial Museum (admission 20B;