Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
WORTH A TRIP
HEAVEN & HELL
Lying just outside Chiang Rai are two of the province's most touted - and bizarre - destinations.
Whereas most of Thailand's Buddhist temples have centuries of history, construction of
Wat Rong Khun
(White Temple off Asia 1 Hwy; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5.30pm Sat- & Sun) , brainchild of noted
Thai painter-turned-architect Chalermchai Kositpipat, began in 1997. Seen from a distance, the temple appears to
be made of glittering porcelain; a closer look reveals that the appearance is due to a combination of whitewash
and clear-mirrored chips. To enter the temple, one must walk over a bridge and pool of reaching arms (symbol-
ising desire), where inside, instead of the traditional Buddha life scenarios, the artist has painted contemporary
scenes representing samsara (the realm of rebirth and delusion). Images such as a plane smashing into the Twin
Towers and, oddly enough, Keanu Reeves as Neo from
The Matrix
(not to mention Elvis, Hello Kitty and Super-
man, among others), dominate the one finished wall of this work in progress.
Wat Rong Khun is located about 13km south of Chiang Rai. To get to the temple, hop on one of the regular
buses that run from Chiang Rai to Chiang Mai or Phayao (20B).
The bizarre brainchild of Thai National Artist Thawan Duchanee, and a rather sinister counterpoint to Wat
Rong Khun,
Baan Dum
(Black House; off Asia 1 Hwy; 9am-noon & 1-5pm) unites several quasi-
traditional structures, most of which are stained black and ominously decked out with animal pelts and bones.
The centrepiece is a black, cavernous temple-like building holding a long wooden dining table and chairs made
from deer antlers - a virtual Satan's dining room. Other buildings include white, breast-shaped bedrooms, dark
phallus-decked bathrooms, and a bone- and fur-lined 'chapel'. The structures have undeniably discernible north-
ern Thai influences, but the dark tones, flagrant flourishes and all those dead animals coalesce in a way that is
more fantasy than reality.
Baan Dum is located 13km north of Chiang Rai in Nang Lae; any Mae Sai-bound bus will drop you off here
for around 20B.
Activities
Nearly every guesthouse and hotel in Chiang Rai offers trekking excursions in hill tribe
country. Many of the local travel agencies merely act as brokers for guides associated with
one of the local guesthouses, so it may be cheaper to book directly through the guest-
houses themselves. As elsewhere in northern Thailand, you're more assured of a quality
experience if you use a TAT-licensed guide.
Trek pricing depends on the type of activities and the number of days and participants.
Rates, per person, for two people for a two-night trek range from 2500B to
6500B.Generally everything from accommodation to transport and food is included in this
price.
Mirror Foundation
( 0 5373 7616;
www.thailandecotour.org
)
Although its rates are higher, trekking with this non-
profit NGO helps support the training of its local guides. Treks range from one to three
TREKKING
