Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
service provides income for the local villagers. The guides point out the interior cave
formations that have been named, yet another Thai cave tradition.
ONE MILLION RICE FIELDS
Once upon a time, northern Thailand was as distinct and foreign to Bangkok and the central plains as Cambodia
or Laos is today. The northern kingdom of Lanna (meaning 'one million rice fields') had its own dialect, writing
system, customs and tribal ethnicity. Even after the decline of an independent Lanna state, the north was still
viewed as the 'other' by Bangkok Thais. A concerted effort to unite the country's different ethnicities into one
unified national identity began after WWII. Now with the national educational system and a modern transient
workforce, Thai culture is much more homogenised. The northern Thai dialect continues to be spoken by
'kun
meu·ang'
(people of the north) and elements of Lanna culture are embraced by Thais from outside the region with
romantic nostalgia. For a guide to the northern Thai dialect and northern food, see the Northern Thailand chapter
(
Click here
)
.
Local legend says this cave complex was the home of a
reu·sĕe
(holy man) for a thou-
sand years, and that the sage was on such intimate terms with the deities that he convinced
some
tair·wá·dah
(the Buddhist equivalent of angels) to create several magic wonders in-
side the caverns: a stream flowing from the pedestal of a solid-gold Buddha; a storehouse
of divine textiles; a mystical lake; a city of
naga
(mythical serpents); a sacred immortal
elephant; and the hermit's tomb. Such fantastical wonders are said to be much deeper in-
side the mountain, beyond the last of the illuminated caverns.
There is a temple complex outside the cavern, and a stream with huge carp and catfish
you can feed (which handily counts as making merit via a donation). Vendors by the park-
ing lot sell medicinal roots and herbs harvested in the nearby forests.
Doi Chiang Dao
(Doi Luang)
Part of the Doi Chiang Dao National Park, Doi Chiang Dao pokes into the heav-
ens at 2195m above sea level. From the summit, reachable by a two-day hike, the views
are spectacular. The southern side of the mountain is believed to be one of the most ac-
cessible spots in the world to see the giant nuthatch and Hume's pheasant.
Birdwatching
and
overnight treks
can be arranged through local guesthouses.
If you just want to wander by yourself, continue to the end of the cave road to Samnak
Song Tham Pha Plong (Tham Pha Plong Hermitage), where the famous meditation master
Luang Pu Sim once resided. A long, steep stairway leads up the mountain to a large
chedi
framed by forest and limestone cliffs.
MOUNTAIN
