Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
administration building, the orchid collection contains over 400 species, the nation's
largest display. The highlight of the garden is the glasshouse complex sitting near the mountain
peak. There are waterlily and lotus collections and the rainforest house, recreating a south-
ern Thai jungle complete with indoor waterfall and canopy platforms.
After the botanic gardens the road climbs up into the fertile Mae Sa Valley, once a high-
altitude basin for growing opium poppies. Now the valley's hill-tribe farmers have re-
seeded their terraced fields with sweet peppers, cabbage, flowers and fruits - which are
then sold to the royal agriculture projects under the Doi Kham label. The royal project at
the Hmong village of Nong Hoi sits some 1200m above sea level and is accessible by a turn-
off road in the village of Pong Yeang. Continue on this road to Mon Cham (Nong Hoi Mai; mains
from 60-150B; 9am-7pm) , a collection of bamboo huts teetering on the ridgeline. The res-
taurant serves tasty Thai food using the royal project's produce but the food takes second
spoon to the panoramic view. The last 100m to the restaurant is a steep gravel climb that
is difficult to ascend on a motorbike.
Sitting at the western wedge of the valley, Proud Phu Fah ( 0 5387 9389; www.proudphufah.com ;
Rte 1096, Km 17; r 2500-4000B; ) is a small boutique hotel with creature-comfort vil-
las designed to give the illusion of sleeping amid the great outdoors. Each villa also has a
patio area right on the water's edge. The open-air restaurant serves healthy Thai food
(dishes 150B to 250B) with a view of the valley.
After Proud Phu Fah, the road swings around the mountain ridge and starts to rise and
dip until it reaches the conifer zone. Beyond, the landscape unfolds in a cascade of moun-
tains. Eventually the road spirals down into Samoeng , a pretty village. If you want to stay
overnight, Samoeng Resort ( 0 5348 7074; Rte 6033; r 500-800B; ) is not a resort at all but rather
a bunch of OK concrete bungalows in a bushy setting, about 2.5km outside the village;
but it is one of the most affordable options around. To get here take Rte 1349 from
Samoeng (a right-hand turn in the town). There are prettier and more expensive resorts on
Rte 1269 between Samoeng and Chiang Mai. To return to Chiang Mai, stay on Rte 1269
all the way to the Th Khlong Chonprathan (canal road).
Getting There & Away
Only part of the route is accessible via public transport. Sŏrng·tăaou go to Samoeng (70B,
2¾ hours, two morning departures) from the Chang Pheuak bus terminal in Chiang Mai.
In Samoeng, the vehicles stop near the market, across from Samoeng Hospital.
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