Central Thailand - Thailand - page 353

Remote Sangkhlaburi overlooks the vast Kheuan Khao Laem (Khao Laem Reservoir),
and owes its existence to the waters. It was founded after an old village, near the conflu-
ence of the three rivers that feed the reservoir, was flooded.
Several NGOs in town help the ethnic communities survive and fight for what few
rights they have. As a result, there is a constant need for volunteers. Though the town is
wonderfully sleepy, there are signs of development - the town now has its first 7-Eleven.
In the last week of July the town is abuzz due to Mon National Day .

Sights & Activities

Wang Kha
A rickety wooden bridge (Saphan Mon), said to be the longest of its kind in Thailand, leads
to this Mon settlement. A 70m section of the bridge collapsed due to torrential rain in
2013, making it impassable. While repair work occurs, access to Wang Kha is still pos-
sible via a nearby concrete bridge.
The village relocated here after the dam's construction flooded the original settlement.
Burma's conflicts forced many Mon into Thailand and now Wang Kha has its own unmis-
takable character. Children play a form of cricket, women smoke giant cheroots and many
wear traditional white face powder.
A day market in the village centre is always busy, while north of this is Wat Wang Wi-
wekaram (Wat Mon), the spiritual centre of the Mon people in Thailand. The temple has
two complexes 640m apart. To the right of the T-junction is the multiroofed wí·hǎhn with
heavy, carved wooden doors and marble banisters. To the left of the T-junction is the Chedi
Luang Phaw Uttama , constructed in the style of the Mahabodhi chedi in Bodhgaya, India. At
night the 6kg of gold that cover it are illuminated. Men only may climb to the top. In the
same courtyard are an ageing chedi and a handicrafts market.
The temple was the home of a highly respected monk, Luang Phaw Uttama. Born in
Burma in 1910, he fled to Thailand in 1949 to escape the civil war and was a cornerstone
of the Mon community. He helped secure this area after the Mon village's previous loca-
tion was flooded by the construction of the dam. In 2006 he died aged 97 at Bangkok's
Srirat Hospital and his medical bills were covered by the queen.
Be sure to hire a private boat (per person 400B) and immerse yourself in the pre-dawn
mist that envelops the dam. Trips go under the wooden bridge and past the old Mon
temple, which is sometimes submerged depending on the time of year.

MON SETTLEMENT