Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
(Giant Swing; Th Bamrung Meuang; 24hr; klorng boat to Tha Phan Fah) This spindly red arch
formerly hosted a Brahman festival in honour of Shiva, in which participants would swing
in ever-higher arcs in an effort to reach a bag of gold suspended from a 15m bamboo pole.
Many died trying and the ritual was discontinued during the reign of Rama VII (King Pra-
jadhipok; r 1925-35).
In 2007 the decaying swing was ceremoniously replaced with the current model, made
from six specially chosen teak logs from Phrae Province in northern Thailand.
Phra Sumen Fort &
Santichaiprakan Park
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NOTABLE BUILDING, PARK
(Th Phra Athit; 5am-10pm; Tha Phra Athit) Beside Mae Nam Chao Phraya in
Banglamphu stands one of Bangkok's original 18th-century forts. Built in 1783 to defend
against potential naval invasions and named for the mythical Phra Sumen (Mt Meru) of
Hindu-Buddhist cosmology, the octagonal brick-and-stucco bunker was one of 14 city
watchtowers that punctuated the old city wall alongside Khlong Rop Krung (now Khlong
Banglamphu but still called Khlong Rop Krung on most signs). Apart from Mahakan Fort,
this is the only one still standing.
Alongside the fort and fronting the river is the small, grassy Santichaiprakan Park with
an open-air pavilion, river views, cool breezes and a bohemian mix of alternative young
Thais and fisherman-pants-wearing, fire-stick-twirling backpackers. It's an interesting
place to sit, people-watch and see what are said to be the last two lam·poo trees in
Banglamphu.
Wat Bowonniwet
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BUDDHIST TEMPLE
( www.watbowon.org ; Th Phra Sumen; 8.30am-5pm; Tha Phra Athit) Founded in 1826, Wat
Bowonniwet (Wat Bowon) is the national headquarters for the Thammayut monastic sect,
a reformed version of Thai Buddhism. Rama IV, who set out to be a scholar, not a king,
founded the Thammayuts and began the royal tradition of ordination at this temple. In
fact, Mongkut was the abbot of Wat Bowon for several years. Rama IX (King Bhumibol
Adulyadej; r 1946-present) and Crown Prince Vajiralongkorn, as well as several other
males in the royal family, have been ordained as monks here.
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