Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
the Thai national curriculum, despite following Islam. Officials from other parts of the country are imported to
run the region.
By turns heavy-handed and paternalistic, the Thai government's policies began to fuel a separatist movement.
Even now, there are no media outlets in the Malay dialect spoken by the majority of people in the Deep South.
Having their children subject to the Thai school system remains a huge source of resentment for many Muslims.
Regarded as symbols of the hated Thai state by the insurgents, over 300 schools have been burned down in recent
years, while more than 150 Buddhist teachers have been assassinated.
But with the insurgency entirely confined to just three provinces, and a small part of neighbouring Songkhla
Province, few Thais are even aware of why the fighting is taking place. Nor are they willing to contemplate giv-
ing into the separatists' demands. Imbued with the nationalism taught in their schools, the idea that the Deep
South should want to secede from Thailand is unthinkable, both to ordinary Thais and the authorities.
Yet some form of autonomy for the region is likely the only way to end the violence. Until that happens, Thail-
and's forgotten war will carry on and the grim list of casualties will continue to grow.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Pattani
POP 43.631
Once the heart of a large Muslim principality that included the neighbouring provinces of
Yala and Narathiwat, Pattani Province has never adjusted to Thai rule. Although today's
political situation has stunted the area's development, Pattani Town has a 500-year history
of trading with the world's most notorious imperial powerhouses. The Portuguese estab-
lished a trading post here in 1516, the Japanese passed through in 1605, the Dutch in 1609
and the British flexed their colonial muscle in 1612.
Yet despite the city's fascinating past, there's little of interest in Pattani except its access
to some decent nearby beaches. The ongoing insurgency has made all but a handful of
these sandy destinations unsafe for the independent traveller.
Sights
The Mae Nam Pattani (Pattani River) divides the older town to the east and the newer
town to the west. Along Th Ruedi you can see what is left of old Pattani
architecture
- the
Sino-Portuguese style that was once so prevalent in this part of southern Thailand. On Th
Arnoaru there are several ancient but still quite intact Chinese-style homes.
Pattani could be one of the better beach destinations in the region. The coastline
between Pattani Town and Narathiwat Province is stunning: untouched and deserted apart
from fishing villages. But exploring much of this area independently is not a safe option at
