Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
WORTH A TRIP
WÁT SUAN MOKKHAPHALARAM
Surrounded by lush forest,
Wát Suan Mokkhaphalaram
(
www.suanmokkh.org
; Wat Suanmokkh) , whose name
means 'Garden of Liberation', charges 2000B for a 10-day program that includes food, lodging and instruction (al-
though technically the 'teaching' is free). English retreats, run by the International Dhamma Hermitage, begin on
the first day of every month and registration takes place the afternoon before. Founded by Ajan Buddhadasa
Bhikkhu, arguably Thailand's most famous monk, the temple's philosophical teachings are ecumenical in nature,
comprising Zen, Taoist and Christian elements, as well as the traditional Theravada schemata.
For details on reaching the temple, located 7km outside of Chaiya, check out
www.suanmokkh-idh.org/idh-
Tours
Pink Dolphin Viewing Tours
(day tours 1700B)
The most special inhabitants of Khanom are the pink dolphins - a rare albino
breed with a stunning pink hue. They are regularly seen from the old ferry pier and the
electric plant pier around dawn and dusk but resorts are now offering full-day tours that in-
clude viewing the dolphins by boat and a car tour to the area's caves and waterfalls.
If you just want to see the dolphins you can hire a boat for a few hours (for up to six
people) for 1000B. Enquire at your hotel.
WILDLIFE
Sleeping & Eating
In the last few years, there has been talk of further developing Khanom's beaches into a
more laid-back alternative to the islands nearby. A recent surge in gulf oil rigging means
developers are eyeing Khanom as a potential holiday destination for nearby workers, but
for now it's still a very low-key retreat.
Many of the resorts see very few customers and the constant disuse (not regularly flush-
ing the toilets etc) means that some rooms are dank as the relentless jungle reclaims them.
It's best to stay away from the large hotels and stick to beachside bungalow operations.
Note that all options are spaced very far apart so unless you have your own wheels don't
expect to just show up and wander around looking for a place to stay.
For some cheap eats, head to
Hat Kho Khao
at the end of Rd 4232. You'll find a steamy
jumble of barbecue stands offering some tasty favourites such as
mŏo nám đòk
(spicy pork
