Northeastern Thailand - Thailand - page 994

river, although at times the main road (by this point no longer full of traffic) is the only
road.
Two and a half kilometres after the bridge you'll meet a troop of monkeys that resides next
to Wat Ban Sai Yai. Here, you must use the main road as it has the only bridge over the
small river. You can get back to the river at the first big dirt road you meet.
After another 9.5km, where the greenish Mae Nam Chanot meets the muddy Mekong,
is Wat Mano Phirom (admission free; dawn-dusk) , one of Mukdahan Province's oldest temples.
The original bòht, now a wí·hăhn, was built in 1756 in Lan Xang style with an elaborately
carved wooden facade and large painted eave brackets. The creatures guarding the stair-
case are too incredible for words.
Wat Srimahapo (admission free; dawn-dusk) , sometimes called Wat Pho Si, is another 4.5km
north in Ban Wan Yai. You may not expect its tiny bòht, built in 1916, to be worth a look,
but inside, elaborately carved beams hold up the tin roof and well-preserved murals cover
the walls. The monks' residence is French-colonial style.
After a further 8km you'll pass the modern, glass-walled Our Lady of the Martyrs of Thailand
Shrine (admission free; 8am-5pm, Mass 7am Sun) , locally called Wat Song Khon and often incor-
rectly described as the largest church in Southeast Asia. It was built in 1995 to commem-
orate seven Thai Catholics killed by the police in 1940 for refusing to renounce their faith.
Wax sculptures of the martyrs and their ashes lie under glass at the back.
Three and a half kilometres after the church is Kaeng Kabao , a stretch of rocky shore and
islets emerging during the dry season. Several rustic restaurants have set up along the
river here, making this a good place to refuel before heading back to Mukdahan, or con-
tinuing for another 17km to That Phanom.