Travel Reference
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onion marinade). But Venetians also love traditional meat dishes, including sopressa (soft
salami), cotechino (boiled sausage) and trippa (tripe). Fegato Veneziano (Venetian calf's
liver) gets mixed reviews, even from Venetians - but don't miss creative cicheti versions,
such as velvety fig-and-liver mousse.
Hidden Happy Hours
Campo Santa Margherita and Campo Cesare Battista attract happy-hour throngs of stu-
dents, tourists and locals alike - but for a drink in local company, track down hidden ba-
cari (watering holes). Duck behind the Rialto Market to All'Arco and Cantina Do Spade,
drink the good stuff at I Rusteghi and Bacaro Da Fiore in San Marco, seek out Al Timon
and Ai Promessi Sposi in Cannaregio, and detour to Bacaro Risorto in Castello.
 
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