Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Like a Local
Venexianarse (making yourself Venetian) is easy to do, even by accident. Slip un-
der an archway into a less-travelled backstreet, order adventurously at the
cicheti (Venetian tapas) counter, duck into bacari (hole-in-the-wall bar) for
happy hour, and òstrega! (wow!) - you're venexian already.
Haunts & Hangouts
On breaks from class, hotel desks, artisan studios and gondola duty, Venetians take a
breather in
campi
(squares) and on
fondamente
(canal banks). Bright spots in Venetian days
can always be found in sunny, spacious
campi
such as Campo San Giacomo dell'Orio,
Campo Bandiera e Mori, Campo San Polo and Campo Santa Maria Formosa. On week-
ends, favourite
fondamente
strolls lead along the Zattere to Punta della Dogana, down the
Riva degli Schiavoni to Giardini Pubblici, and along Giudecca's sunny waterfront to
canalside dinner concerts at I Figli delle Stelle or panoramic drinks at Skyline Rooftop Bar.
Backstreet Routes
On average, Venetians get asked once daily for directions to tourist destinations like Piazza
San Marco, Rialto, Accademia and Ferrovia (the train station) - and if you stay awhile and
walk confidently, you'll be asked too. Dodge the day-tripper crowds by taking alternative
routes to your destination along minor
calli
(lanes) that wiggle through quieter Venetian
neighbourhoods, often in approximate parallel with major thoroughfares like
Strada
Nuova
(Rialto-Ferrovia),
Marzaria
(San Marco-Rialto) and
Calle Larga XXII Marzo
(San Marco-Accademia). Favourite local bypass routes are the
Fondamenta della Miseri-
cordia (
Rialto-Ferrovia, near the Ghetto),
Calle dei Fabbri
(San Marco-Rialto, behind
Caffè Quadri) and
Piscina Frezzeria
(San Marco-Accademia, near
La Fenice
).
Favourite Dishes
Lagoon seafood is the pride of Venice, and flies off
cicheti
(Venetian tapas) counters at
lunch and happy hour. Arrive by noon or 6pm for today's catch, or your options may be
down to the classics:
bacala mantecato
(creamed cod) or
sarde in saor
(sardines in tangy
