Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Music
Over the centuries, Venetian musicians developed a reputation for playing music as though
their lives depended on it, which at times wasn't far from the truth. In its trade-empire hey-
day, La Serenissima had official musicians, including the distinguished directorship of
Flemish Adrian Willaert (1490-1562) for 35 years at Capella Ducale. But when the city fell
on hard times in the 17th to 18th centuries, it discovered its musical calling.
With shrinking trade revenues, the state took the quixotic step of underwriting musical
education for orphan girls, and the investment yielded unfathomable returns. Among the
maestri
hired to conduct orphan orchestras was Antonio Vivaldi (1678-1741), whose
30-year tenure yielded hundreds of concertos and popularised Venetian baroque music
across Europe. Visitors spread word of extraordinary performances by orphan girls, and the
city became a magnet for novelty-seeking moneyed socialites. Modern visitors to Venice
can still see music and opera performed in the same venues as in Vivaldi's day -
palazzi
(palaces), churches and
ospedaletti
(orphanages) such as La Pietà, where Vivaldi worked -
and sometimes on 18th-century instruments.
GIANANTONIO DE VINCENZO: MUSICIAN
Beyond Baroque
Vivaldi is like masquerade masks in Venice: it's everywhere, you can't miss it. When you encounter different mu-
sic, stop and listen: this is how culture evolves, by paying attention to unexpected sensations. Otherwise, we're
stuck with whatever's on TV.
Dinner & a Show
Restaurants close early, but you can find
cicheti
(Venetian tapas) before and after concerts. I'll grab
panini
and
natural-process
prosecco
at Al Mercà before shows, or hit the
cicheti
bar at Al Pesador or Ai Postali afterwards.
Venetian Jazz
The creak of a gondola oar in the oarlock, followed by the rush of swirling water: those are the quiet, rhythmic
sounds you can actually hear in Venice, because there is no aggressive traffic noise. Saturdays at Rialto Market
you'll hear an improvised call-and-response between vendors and shoppers - it's Venice's own jazz.
Giannantonio De Vincenzo is a musician and composer
Opera
Today's televised talent searches can't compare to Venice's ability to discover talents like
Claudio Monteverdi (1567-1643), who was named the musical director of the Basilica di
