Travel Reference
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iesa dei Gesuati and Ca' Rezzonico in his staggering ceilings, where angels perch on
rose-gold clouds. Tiepolo and his son Domenico frescoed Villa Valmarana 'ai Nani'
outside Vicenza from floor to ceiling, turning salons into a woodland wonderland,
commedia dell'arte circus and chinoiserie curiosity cabinet. Without the Inquisition
looking over his shoulder to censor his paintings, Paolo Veronese frescoed Palladio's
Villa di Masèr with a lighthearted touch, painting a trompe-l'oeil painter's ladder in
the living room and a self-portrait exchanging conspiratorial glances with his favour-
ite niece in adjoining salons. But for frescoes that are both heavenly and down to
earth, head to Padua to encounter colourful, relatable saints in Giotto's 1303-05 Cap-
pella degli Scrovegni Renaissance masterpiece.
 
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