Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
VENISSA
During the Renaissance, most of the wine served at Venice's high tables came from vineyards on the lagoon is-
lands. It was fermented from hardy, ancient varieties like Dorona and was golden hued in colour and bone dry to
taste. But as the empire expanded, the Venetians abandoned their unyielding island vineyards for more productive
possessions around Soave and Valpolicella. That is, until Gianluca Bisol, a
prosecco
producer from Valdobbi-
adene, heard of an ancient vineyard for sale on Mazzorbo in 1999. Since then, Bisol has worked magic rehabilit-
ating orchards and vegetable patches, and restocking the brick-lined
peschiera
with eels, mullet and crabs. Then
he renovated the farm building into a low-key, six-room guesthouse, and in 2006
Venissa Ristorante Ostello
MAP
( 041 527 22 81;
www.venissa.it
;
Fondamenta Santa Caterina 3; noon-3pm & 7-9.30pm Tue-Sun;
Mazzorbo)
S
was opened to the public. But his greatest act of reclamation was undoubtedly the reintroduc-
tion of the 600-year-old Dorona grape at the heart of the new vineyard, so now you, too, can sup the nectar of
Renaissance princes alongside lagoon langoustine and salicornia seaweed.
Torcello
LOCANDA CIPRIANI €€€
MAP
ITALIAN
GOOGLE MAP
( 041 73 01 50;
www.locandacipriani.com
; Piazza Santa Fosca 29; meals €40-55; by reservation, closed Tue &
Jan; Torcello)
A rustic retreat run by the Cipriani family since 1934, the Locanda is
Harry's Bar gone wild. Go with seasonal specialities like
bigoli
(fat wholewheat spaghetti)
with rabbit, lamb with wild herbs, or plan a lazy afternoon around the €45 Torcello menu
fit for a famished Hemingway. Lunches and dinners are served by the fireplace or in the
garden under the rose pergola.
