Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
ART BIENNALE: A LOCAL'S GUIDE
For the last decade, designer and art director
Pamela Berry
(
www.pamelaberry.com
) has made Venice her home
- and helped create tailor-made itineraries for the city and its surrounding countryside. An Art Biennale veteran,
she's learned to navigate the crowds and wring the most from the sprawling phenomenon.
If you only have a weekend
The first day, I would visit the pavilions in the Giardini Pubblici (
Click here
) and
then head over to the Arsenale (
Click here
). The second day, I'd choose from the list of other exhibitions and
just start wandering throughout the city.
Beating the crowds
The first week of Art Biennale is the busiest, though in some ways the most interesting - the
crowd is educated, sophisticated and international. After June it really quiets down, and you can easily visit
without elbowing others. However, the rest of the city grows hot and crowded. September and October are won-
derful, after the summer crowds and heat subside.
For the glamour of it all
The opening of the Biennale is very glamorous - the city fills with cocktails, events and
parties until late. Yachts and celebrities are eager to out-do, out-party and out-glam one another. For the best
people-watching, head to Harry's Bar (
Click here
) or
B-Bar
MAP
041 240 68 19; Campo
di San Moisè 1455; 6.30pm-1am Wed-Sun; Vallaresso) at the Bauer's L'Hotel.
Refuelling
Favourite places within a stone's throw of the Giardini include Corte Sconta (
Click here
) and al Covo
(
Click here
). For fresh, organic and vegetarian takeaway, head to Le Spighe (
Click here
). And for inexpensive
casalinga
(homemade) meals, try Trattoria alla Rampa (
Click here
). If you have your heart set on a particular
place, be sure to reserve well ahead during the weeks of Biennale.
Treasure hunting
There are collateral exhibitions and temporary pavilions scattered throughout the city during
the Biennale (printed material with indications and maps is available at the entrances). Some are interesting, some
not, but even if you don't end up liking the art, the locations are often worth visiting. It's like going on a treasure
hunt to find some of them. There are exhibitions in palaces and churches, galleries and monasteries, abandoned
buildings and far-flung islands.
Favourite far-flung venue
The Scuola della Misericordia in Cannaregio is worth the hike. It was built in the
mid-1500s, and its high ceilings and massive columns are attributed to the architect Jacopo Sansovino. Many
Venetians still remember it as a basketball court and gym in the '70s. It's especially worth seeking out since it's
only open to the public during Biennale.
