Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
( 041 522 90 38; Calle de la Malvasia 6015; cicheti €1.50-3; noon-3pm & 6-10pm; Rialto)
Beneath the
portico that gives this
bacaro
its name is a walk-in closet that somehow manages to dis-
tribute wine and
cicheti
to the overflowing crowd of young Venetians in approximate or-
der of arrival. Wine is cheap (€2 to €3) and plentiful, and the bar groans with classic
nibbles. If that's not enough, make a dash for one of the five tables round the back where
enormous plates of
fritto misto
and pasta with scampi are served.
QCOFFEE BAR
MAP
CAFE
GOOGLE MAP
( 041 099 13 07; Fondazione Querini Stampalia, Campo Santa Maria Formosa 5252; 10am-10.30pm Tue-Sat,
to 7pm Sun; ; San Zaccaria)
One drink grants you access to the works of two modernist
master architects through the Querini Stampalia bookshop. Rainy days are right for hot
chocolate in Mario Botta's neoclassical cafe, with white walls framed with black polished-
concrete floors. Outside, Carlo Scarpa's clever, Levant-inspired concrete irrigation chan-
nels bring Venice's canals indoors, adding industrial cool to your
spritz
in the sunny
garden.
EL RÈFOLO
MAP
BAR
GOOGLE MAP
(Via Garibaldi 1580; sandwiches & salads €1.5-5; 5.30pm-12.30am Tue-Sun, 10.30-12.30am Tue-Sun during Bien-
nale; Giardini)
Although the bars along Via Garibaldi may look interchangeable, the queue
for el Rèfolo's pavement tables says otherwise. Part of the draw is the ever-friendly
Massimiliano dispensing Italian micro-brews and glasses of wine; then there are the
plump sandwiches stuffed with wild boar mortadella, Sauris speck and pungent cheeses
such as
puzzone di Moena
; and, finally, there's the live summer music (May to October).
PARADISO
( 041 241 39 72; Giardini della Biennale 1260; 9am-7pm, later during Biennale; Biennale)
This cheery
yellow mini
-palazzo
is fuelled by a steady stream of coffee and cocktails that cost less
than you'd expect given the designer chairs, waterfront terrace and lack of competition -
this is the only cafe within reach of anyone in stilettos at the Biennale.
CAFE
ACIUGHETA ENOTECA
MAP
WINE BAR
GOOGLE MAP
