Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
the lives of Christ and an assortment of saints. Housed in the
Cappella Giustiniani
, just left of
the altar, they are storytelling triumphs. Breezes seem to ripple through carved-marble
trees, and lifelike lions seem prepared to pounce right off the wall. And keep your eye on
the expressive reactions of minor figures in these biblical narratives. They provide a run-
ning commentary on the action, right down to the startled mule.
Out the back, the bell tower looks like the long-lost twin of the Campanile di San
Marco and, facing north, a couple of steps leading to a portico of classical columns make
the
campo
look like a proper ancient-Roman
agora
(market place). This makes a sociable
setting for Venice's best annual block party, the
Festa di Francesco della Vigna
, with wine and
rustic fare served up in the stately shadow of Palladio; it's usually held the third week in
June.
CHIESA DI SAN MARTINO
MAP
CHURCH
GOOGLE MAP
( 041 523 04 87; Campo San Martino 2298; 8.45-11.45am & 4.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 8am-noon Sun;
Arsenale)
F
The neighbourhood church of San Martino is named after St Martin of Tours
(AD 316-97), a Hungarian priest and the first Christian saint to die a natural death rather
than suffer some irksome martyrdom. Inside, Sansovino's Greek cross interior is lined
with eight chapels and topped by a
trompe l'oeil
ceiling by Domenico Bruni. Palma di
Giovane's canvases of Jesus being flogged and then marched towards Calvary are tucked
out of sight in the choir stalls.
The church's other modest treasures include Tullio Lombardo's marble altar effortlessly
held aloft by two fervently praying angels and, over the side door, the tomb of Doge
Francesco Erizzo, which cleverly mirrors the facade of his
palazzo
seen through the door.
To the right of the church is the former
Scuola di San Martino
, where secondhand sales are
sometimes held. It was built by the Guild of Ship Caulkers in the 16th century and sports
a relief above the door of St Martin offering to share his cloak with a beggar. On the
saint's feast day, 11 November, when children run through the streets banging cooking
pots and hoping for sweets, you'll see the same image reproduced in the shape of hun-
dreds of sugar-coated cookies.
