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( 041 71 60 37; Calle della Misericordia 367; meals €6-10; 7.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat; Ferrovia)
Train-station sandwiches would be an anticlimactic ending to any Venetian culinary ad-
venture, so stop by this bàcaro near the station to toast your trip with a glass of prosecco
and the €6 menu of primi of the day - asparagus risotto, pasta e fagioli (pasta with beans),
or casarecce (scroll pasta) with sausage, olives and tomato if you're lucky.
AI PROMESSI SPOSI €€
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VENETIAN
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( 041 241 27 47; Calle d'Oca 4367; meals €25-35; 11.30am-3pm & 6-11pm Thu-Sun & Tue, 6-11pm Mon &
Wed; Ca' d'Oro) Bantering Venetians thronging the bar are the only permanent fixtures at
this newly revived neighbourhood osteria , where handwritten menus created daily feature
fresh Venetian seafood and Veneto meats at excellent prices. Seasonal standouts include
seppie in umido (cuttlefish in rich tomato sauce) and housemade tagliatelle with anatra
(wild duck), but pace yourself for cloudlike tiramisu and elegant chocolate torte.
OSTERIA L'ORTO DEI MORI €€
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MODERN ITALIAN
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( 041 524 36 77; www.osteriaortodeimori.com ; Campo dei Mori 3386; meals €25-45; 12.30-3.30pm &
7.30pm-midnight Wed-Mon; Madonna dell'Orto) Not since Tintoretto lived next door has this
neighbourhood seen so much action, thanks to this bustling osteria . Sicilian chef Lorenzo
makes fresh surf-and-turf pasta daily, including squid atop spinach tagliolini and pasta
with zucchini blossoms and scampi. Upbeat staff and fish-shaped lamps set a playful
mood, and you'll be handed prosecco to endure waits for tables (book ahead).
ANTICA ADELAIDE €€
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( 041 523 26 29; Calle Priuli 3728; meals €25-40; 7.30-10.30pm; Ca' d'Oro) S An old osteria
with inspired new ideas, Antica Adelaide combines hearty lagoon fare served here since
the 18th century with one of Italy's most exciting menus of small-production natural
wines (eg biodynamic, organic, natural fermentation). Pair lagoon-clam linguine with or-
ganic Cantina Filippi DOC soave and orechiette (ear-shaped) pasta with almonds and gor-
gonzola with Castello di Arcano's sulfite-free organic Refosco blend.
TRATTORIA
LA CANTINA €€
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VENETIAN, CICHETI BAR
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